Mick Fowler (with Andy Cave, Chris Pasteur and Duncan Tunstall). May-June 2000

Mt Kennedy, 4200m, lies in the Kluane National Park on the border between Canada and Alaska, and its 'inspirational' 1800m NW Face (in Canada) remains unclimbed. On arrival at its foot, this team realised why, judging the avalanche risk too great in the prevailing weather conditions. Shifting their attention to the North Buttress which had previously had 2 fixed rope 'siege-type' ascents, in a 6-day push Cave and Fowler made the first alpine-style ascent which they graded TD Sup, and 'serious'! Pasteur and Tunstall attempted the NE Face/E Ridge of the mountain, but were stopped by a huge crevasse spanning the whole glacier. However, they made probable first ascents of two nearby peaks of 2850m and 3325m.