Geoff Hornby (with Mike Smith from the USA). May-June 2000

When his original partner dropped out at the eleventh hour, the future of this expedition seemed in jeopardy, but then the leader - already in Alaska - met up with a worthy replacement. However, that was not the end of his problems, as with continuous high winds (which prevented anyone from summiting the W Buttress on Denali), the local pilots were unwilling to fly to the remote Chedotlothna Glacier from where he planned to attempt a traverse of Mount Russell, 3557m. A flight to Ruth Glacier was substituted, from where two first ascents were achieved - Mt Sholes, 1905m, and Mt Tassles, 2091m.