Geoff Hornby (with Dave Wallis). May–Jun 2001

The E Pillar of The Broken Tooth, 2749m, bears a striking resemblance to the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru, so was an attractive target for these climbers. Unfortunately, although the weather in Central Alaska was generally good throughout the year, over this period it was not, and a preliminary fly-past on a scenic flight showed that the mountain was plastered in fresh snow with the lower slopes seamed by recent avalanche runs. They therefore flew in to the Ruth Glacier instead, intending to attempt the unclimbed 747 Peak. Deep snow and unstable seracs prevented them from getting much above 747 Col, and a subsequent attempt on a peak to the south of Thunder Mountain was also abandoned.