Region: America North & Central

Ian Parnell (with Kenton Cool). May June 2002

This 2-man team had two objectives in mind for their return visit to Alaska, one being a new route on the SE Face of Mt Foraker (5305m). However, they discovered that this route was threatened by at least 15 séracs, making it far too dangerous to attempt. As a consolation, they attempted the Infinite Spur on the same peak, but were forced to abandon due to appalling snow conditions. They therefore turned their attention to the other objective, the first free ascent of Denali Diamond on the SW Face of Denali, 6194m. Despite - or possibly because of - almost continuous snow, they climbed this in 5 days, compared with 17 days for the first ascent, using only 2 points of aid.