Region: Himalaya - China & Tibet

Mick Fowler (with Roger Gibbs, Mike Morrison and Paul Ramsden) April 2002

In an attempt to attract visitors, the Siguniang area of Sichuan Province was declared a Reserve ('AAAA' rated!) by the Chinese a few years ago, and although popular with local tourists, until now had not received any British visitors. Mt Siguniang, 6250m, the highest peak, had been climbed three times from the south, but the only attempt on the 1000m 'ice streaked granite' North Face (by Jack Tackle in1981) had been unsuccessful. Over a period of eight days and nights that included his most uncomfortable bivouacs yet (during which he nevertheless endeavoured to keep abreast with the latest activities of Harry Potter) and nourished with little more than noodles, Fowler made its first ascent (ED sup) with Ramsden. After descending by the unclimbed North Ridge, he declared it 'one of the best climbs I've ever done': praise indeed! Meanwhile, Gibbs and Morrison explored the area, climbing Ptarmigan Peak, 4730m, via a mainly rock route, and then with Morrison unwell, Gibbs made a solo ascent of the S Face of Snowy Peak - aka Pt 5484m - at the head of Changping Valley.
[See also expedition 02/11 to the same area, click here to jump to 02/11)