Region: America - North & Central

Malcolm Bass (with Simon Yearsley) April-May 2003

Although Kahiltna Queen, 3773m (aka Humble peak) had been climbed from the north and west, until this duo arrived the impressive South Face remained untouched. In an extremely successful trip with mainly good weather, they climbed both the obvious couloir systems in single pushes without bivouac kit, the left hand ('Distant Lights') at Alaskan 3+, Scottish 5 and the right hand ('South Face Couloir') at Alaskan 3+, Scottish 4, the latter to the peak's summit. Both routes were predominantly snow and 'bullet-hard black ice'.