Region: Greenland

Stephen Reid (with Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones and Jonathan Preston). July-August 2003

In 1996 [MEF Ref 96/27], Preston and Reid made the first ascent of the North-West Ridge of Dansketinde, 2930m, the highest peak in the Staunings Alps, and this return visit aimed at making the first ascents of its South and/or South-West Ridges. After being dropped by helicopter at Col Major, c.2100m, they acclimatised by climbing the peak by the Original Route, marking it with wands to guide them during future descents. Following a few days of mixed weather and some reconnaissance trips, they next made an attempt on the S Ridge, but abandoned this at a steep wall at two-thirds height. In a 17½ hour 'push' a successful ascent of the SW Ridge was then achieved at a grade of TD-. After more bad weather, another attempt was made on the S Ridge: this time they were more fortunate, and in a round trip of 30 hours the ridge was climbed at TD+. In addition to the climbing, some rock samples were collected for Oslo University.