Region: America - South and Antartica

Alun Powell (with Nick Bullock). May-June 2003

Jirishanca, 6094m, at the northern end of the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru is rated as one of the most difficult mountains in S America. Having experienced a 'near-death experience' due to bad weather in 2002 [MEF Ref: 02/23], this strong pair knew that the 'couloir of death' at the bottom of the SE face must be avoided unless it is completely frozen. Spending a longer time than usual acclimatising, they climbed the N Ridge of Vallunaraja, 5685m, from BC to summit in 5 hours at AD-. After assisting in a search for two Austrian climbers lost on Jirishanca Chico, they then concentrated on their main objective. They were relieved to find that the couloir was frozen, and they were able to make the first ascent of the very steep 900m ice route (which they called 'Fear and Loathing' and graded ED3, Scottish 7++ or French VII, 6+) in 3 days, taking a further day to descend.