Region: China and Tibet

Ms Julie-Ann Clyma (with Roger Payne) October-November 2003
Although permits to attempt the NW Ridge of Qomo Lhari (7314m) in Yadong County of Tibet were received some time prior to departure, they were rescinded at the last minute due to military exercises in the area, so an alternative objective had to be chosen. Following discussions with their local guide/interpreter in Chengdu and their own earlier research, they decided that Mount Grosvenor, 6376m, in Sichuan Province, would be a good alternative. Despite the climbing being mainly on very thin ice and nevé up to Scottish Grade 6 with poor protection and considerable rope damage, they were successful in making its first ascent via the cold North Face and West Ridge. Descent was initially via the SE Ridge before traversing round to the north and abseiling from a col between Mt Grosvenor and Jiazi, 6540m. On their return to Kangding, the team received great hospitality from local officials, who seemed keen to encourage mountaineers from overseas to visit China and Sichuan. [See also 03/42A below]