Region: America - North & Central

Dr Paul Knott (with Dr Erik Monasterio of NZ/Bolivia) May-June 2003

Before tackling their prime objective, this experienced duo elected to attempt the unclimbed North Peak of Mount Foresta, one of the multiple pointed summits between Mount Vancouver and Mount Seattle lying wholly in Alaska. Approaching from the east, their first attempt was thwarted by sustained difficulties, but on their second, by climbing a shallow snow rib, they joined the East Ridge at 1951m. From a camp at 2635m they were successful in reaching the North Peak where they were surprised to find that their GPS and altimeter readings of 3341m (10,960 ft) were much less than the height marked on the map (11,960 ft). However, as they were obviously lower than the South Peak (marked as 11,040 ft) they assumed that the map height was a typographical error. [This has subsequently been confirmed by the US Geological Survey.] Turning their attention to Mount Vancouver, 4812m, they camped a little beyond the BC site used in 1999 (MEF Ref: 99/38) but found that conditions had changed radically. The flat area on which their aircraft had landed four years earlier was now seamed with large crevasses, making the terrain far too dangerous for a 2-man team to traverse.