Region: America - South and Antarctica

Nick Bullock initially with Al Powell, then with Adam Kovach from Sweden (June - July 2004)

The original plan of this expedition was to make the first ascent of the E Face of Chacraraju Este (6001m) in the Cordillera Blanca. However, on arriving in Peru, they learned that the route had already been climbed in 2000 by 2 Slovenian climbers, who had then both been killed in Nepal before reporting their success. The SE Ridge was apparently still unclimbed, but when 2 very scary days on loose rock and wobbly overhanging ice had only got them two-thirds of the way up, retreat was deemed preferable to death. Powell then returned to UK so Bullock decided on a solo attempt of the Jaeger line (ED1) on the S Face of the mountain. At Pisco base camp he met Kovach who had exactly the same aim, so they agreed to 'simu-solo' side by side, thus making the best use of the very limited gear that they both carried - 40m of 5mm cord, 50m of 7mm cord plus a limited collection of pegs, wires, krabs and tat. They made good progress, and in a 20 hour single push, they climbed the route, adding a 3-pitch direct finish to the ridge (VI/7) which they called Running on Empty.