Region: Pakistan

Simon Yates with Andy Parkin (September-October 2004)

Hispar Sar (6400m) lies north of the Hispar Glacier, and close to a very popular trekking route, so is relatively easy to access, yet remains unclimbed. This team attempted the steep Central Couloir of the SW Face but a mishap with a karabiner in the dark from their bivouac point at the end of the first day on the route resulted in 3 stuff bags containing most of their food and brewing kit sliding into the unknown. Despite limited rations, they continued climbing (up to ED IV) for a further three days until the summit was in sight, but then a storm blew up, which they were unable to sit out due to the cold and wet combined with a lack of gas. A multi-abseil retreat from their high point of 6100m was followed by a disorientating meander down the Yutmaru Glacier and a return home. Nevertheless, the pair had experienced an enjoyable and hassle-free expedition, which makes them recommend other climbers to return to the once popular mountains of the Karakoram