Region: Himalaya - Nepal

Owen Samuel with Andy Turner (October-November 2005)

Machermo (aka Phari Lapcha) (6017m) in the very popular Gokyo Valley is one of 33 peaks recently given 'trekking peak' status by the Nepalese authorities. Although one route (Bonfire of the Vanities ED1) has already been climbed on its N Face, these two prospective Guides felt that there was scope for another. Unfortunately, an unseasonable cold period meant that snow conditions were poor with little ice, making the face un-climbable. After reaching 5300m on a rising traverse, they were therefore forced to abandon their attempt.