Region: America - North & Central

Andrew Saxby with Jago Trasler (May 2005)

Although attempted by several climbers over the years, all had failed to reach the summit of Peak 11,520' (3512m) above Central Alaska's Tokosita Glacier. Bad weather delayed this team's flight to the Mount Huntington landing site, but they eventually established a base camp at 2620m below their chosen peak. Unfortunately, Coley Gentzel & Seth Hobby from the USA were after the same objective, and in fact climbed it whilst the UK pair were getting established. Nevertheless, they continued in the hope of making the second ascent, but after climbing 300m of ice and mixed ground on the NW Ridge (Scottish grade V), they were forced to retreat when Saxby suffered severe stomach pains, possibly due - at least in part - to hanging from belays in his harness. Frequent heavy snowfalls with whiteout conditions and avalanche danger precluded any further attempts.