Region: America - South & Antarctica

Gareth Hughes with Tim Darlow, Myles English & Oliver Metherell from UK and Robin Deplante from France (July-August 2005)

For the leader this was a return to an area that he had visited 12 months earlier as a member of Iain Rudkin's expedition reference 04/37. Their prime objective was a new route up the obvious ice funnel on the W Face of Nevado Rondoy (5879m) in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Unfortunately, there had been little snowfall in the area since May, so conditions were dry and the glacier had changed considerably, making approach dangerous and the route unjustifiable. Conditions on Jirishanca (6094m) were no more encouraging, but the summit of Cerro Mexico (5040m) was reached via its West Ridge (D). They therefore decided to carry out a thorough exploration of the East side of the Copa Massif in the Cordillera Blanca. Here they had more success, reaching the summits of Copa (6188m), Artesonraju (6040m), Tocllaraju 6025m), and Chopicalqui (6534m) by routes up to D+, and reconnoitring various other peaks. In the light of their experience, they now feel that conditions would probably be safer earlier in the climbing season eg May-June.