Region: Himalaya - India

Dr Julie-Ann Clyma with Roger Payne plus Kunzang Gyatso Bhutia & Sagar Rai from the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association. (March-April 2005)

Although having borders with Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan means that all visitors to Sikkim have to obtain an 'inner line' permit, this is not difficult, and the authorities have recently designated a number of peaks in the area around the Talung Glacier as 'trekking peaks'. Having seen some of these during 2004, this husband and wife team returned to explore the glacier and hopefully make first ascents in the area. Despite poor and very cold weather throughout, two peaks were climbed: the North summit of Lama Lamani c5650m received its first ascent via the NW Flank & W Ridge (AD+) and then Tinchenkang (6010m) by its NW Ridge at D- (probably its first 'alpine-style' ascent and third overall).