06/04 - Huantsan East Face 2006
Nick Bullock with Matt Helliker (June-July 2006)
The main aim of this team in visiting the Cordillera Blanca in Peru was to climb the couloir on the East Face of Huantsán (6395m). After experiencing several forms of transport including a so-called ‘express’ bus shared with a herd of sheep, they eventually established their base camp at 4400m in the Quebrada Alhuina. It was clear that due to the unsettled weather, the intended route was not in condition, so as an alternative, they decided to attempt the 1000m Central NE Buttress on the separate peak of Huantsán Sur (5919m) to its left. Despite overhanging séracs and massive ice umbrellas they successfully climbed this over a three-day period, calling the route ‘Death or Glory’ and grading it TD/ED
For more details see: nickbullock2003@yahoo.co.uk
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