Region: Himalaya - Nepal

Jon Bracey with Nick Bullock (October-November 2006)

Phari Lapcha (aka Machermo 6017m) is one of 33 mountains recently given ‘trekking peak’ status by the Nepalese authorities, and although fairly accessible from the Lukla to Gokyo trek, only had one route ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’ (ED1) on its N Face. Several teams had tried to add to this (including Owen Samuel’s 05/21) but this duo was the first to succeed. Their 1000m route, which they called ‘Snottie’s Gully’ (ED, WI 5, M5+) landed them on the coffee-table-sized West summit (c.5977m) - the first people to reach it. Although they had also hoped to climb a new route on the North face of Khunde, they decided that ice conditions were not suitable.