06/26 - Lobsang Spire 2006
John Arran with Anne Arran (July-August 2006)
This husband and wife team visited the Muztagh Glacier to explore and search for big-wall climbing potential. Their main objective was the first ascent of the S Face of Lobsang Spire (5707m) but the route appeared dangerously loose, and an alternative traversing line proved unsuitable for big wall technique and did not hold enough snow for an alpine-style ascent. Nevertheless, they reached a height of 5200m. They then turned their attention to an unclimbed/unnamed 5607m peak directly to its south, twice reaching 5450m on the NW Face of its West Pillar in 12 pitches from scrambling up to E4 6a (with about 4 still to go) before being repulsed by rain and snow.
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