Region: China and Tibet

Mick Fowler with Steve Burns, Ian Cartwright and Paul Ramsden (April-May 2007)

During his expedition to Kajaqiao in 2005 (MEF Ref 05/17 click here to view) Fowler discovered that the name had originally been attributed to a very shapely peak to its south whose true name was Manamcho (6264m): Tom Nakamura described is as ‘the Matterhorn of the Nyainkentanghla’. Amos & Thomas had attempted to climb its NW Ridge while Fowler & Watts were on Kajaqiao, but only reached 5880m. However, Fowler had been so impressed with its appearance that this return visit was inevitable. In a round trip of 8 days from base camp (including one spent exploring the ‘most beautiful area ever visited’) Fowler and Ramsden completed the ascent of the NW Ridge (at TD) and thus the first ascent of the peak. Unfortunately, photographs from the summit, rather than the hoped for panoramic extravaganza, ‘could have been taken on any cold, snowy, misty and windswept place anywhere in the world’. (We’ve all been there!) Meanwhile in a 4-day round trip, Burns and Cartwright made the first ascent of Peak 5935m which rises to the NW of the large glacier plateau north and west of Manamcho and Kajaqiao. This climb involved superb mixed climbing of AD standard, and the excellent views from the summit helped to clarify the layout of the mountains in the area.