Region: Pakistan

Ms Pat Deavoll with Ms Lydia Bradey (June-July 2007)

Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940m) lies in the Batura range of Pakistan, and although some years ago an unauthorised attempt was made from the north via the Batura Glacier, this was the first official expedition to the peak. Weather conditions throughout this trip were generally excellent, but poor snow conditions and a rock band that required fixed ropes (which they did not have) led to the attempt on the south face being abandoned at 6200m – with possibly 3 days more required to reach the summit. They did however make the first ascent (up steep snow and ice) of another peak, which they named Wahine (5835m). For success on Beka Brakkai Choka the climbers recommend acclimatising on another peak and also having an additional team member to help with load carrying (including rope for fixing) and leading, although it would sometimes be difficult to find anywhere big enough for a 3-person tent.