Region: America - Himalaya - India

Ms Pat Deavoll (NZ) with Bruce Normand (UK) and Paul & Shelley Hersey (NZ) (September-October 2007)

Although Deavoll & Normand originally planned to make another attempt on Jankuth (6805m) at the head of the Gangotri Glacier, the Uttaranchal State Government refused a permit: however, they were able to obtain one to attempt the unclimbed East Ridge of Kharchakund (6612m) in the Garhwal, and were joined by the Herseys, who had designs on other unclimbed aspects of the same peak. However, after scouting out two routes, the Herseys decided that the sérac danger was too great, so they turned their attention to Yeonbuk (5953m). After climbing several ‘bullet-proof’ pitches of 60 degree ice Deavoll & Normand established themselves on the East Ridge of Kharchakund, but overnight a snow storm struck, and they decided to withdraw. When the weather improved 6 days later, they discovered that the East Ridge was now out of condition, so they decided to have a look at the SW Ridge, but soon realised that it would be too dangerous. However, Deavoll remembered seeing an unnamed 6465m peak further up the glacier in 2004, so they decided to attempt that. In a 2-day push with deteriorating weather they reached its summit – probably the first people to do so - and returned to base camp where they met up with the other team members who had decided that the avalanche risk on Yeonbuk was too great to continue.