Region: Pakistan

Ms Pat Deavoll with Malcolm Bass (June-July 2008)

Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940m) is a peak in the Batura range of North Pakistan, and having failed on it with a 2-woman team in 2007 (MEF Reference 07/16) this NZ leader returned for another attempt with a male partner from UK. After acclimatising on Baktoshi Peak (6050m), this year they turned their attention to the icefall to the west of the South Face of Beka Brakkai Chhok, establishing a camp at 6000m just below the col on the SW Ridge. At 3 am next day they started for the summit, but after two hours thick clouds moved in and it started to snow so they abseiled back the to the tent. The bad weather continued for 10 days by which their 8-day rations were virtually spent, but nevertheless, they had one more attempt at the summit. Climbing a slanting line up the SW Ridge, they reached 6300m where they were stopped by a long sharp corniced section composed of suspect snow with no sign of possible protection, which they considered to be unjustifiably dangerous, so abandoned the attempt.

Note: The S Peak of BBC (their objective) was climbed in early August by two Italians using the same route that they had attempted, but there is apparently some doubt as to which spot on the ridge is the highest point.