Region: Himalaya - India

Roger Payne with Owen Samuel, also Claire & Simon Humphris and Norwegian Tom Midttun during acclimatisation phase. (October-November 2008)

For some years, this leader has been hoping to obtain permission to make the first ascent of the S Ridge of Gurodongmar (6715m) in North Sikkim, and although under a barrage of requests the Sikkim authorities seem to be gradually relaxing their attitude towards foreign expeditions, Gurodongmar still remains off limits. However, after acclimatising in North Sikkim with first ascents of Marpo Peak (c5400m), Ta Peak (c5300m) and Changma Peak (5000m), this duo moved to West Sikkim, to attempt the SE Ridge of Rathong (6679m). Mixed climbing up to UIAA grade IV/V rock and grade II snow/ice took them to a very exposed bivouac at c6300m. Very strong winds made it dangerous to continue on the exposed ridge above this point, so they aborted, descending with 18 abseils.