Region: Himalaya - India

Jim Lowther (UK) with Mark Richey, Steve Swenson & Mark Wilford (from USA) and Chewang Motup, Ang Tashi, Konchok Tinles Dahn Singh & Tsering Sherpa from India) (August-September 2009)

With access to the Indian Karakoram largely forbidden to foreign expeditions, many of the stunning mountains in the area remain unclimbed, including the East (ie: Main) summit of Saser Kangri II (7518m) - reputed to be the world’s second highest unclimbed peak. This team planned to recce the area and hopefully make its first ascent. After finding a route to the peak’s South Face, they spent 4 days climbing steep ice (55º-60º) and mixed ground until they were stopped at 6700m by the combined effects of slow progress, technical ice climbing, a lack of bivouac sites and extremely cold, deteriorating weather.