Malcolm Bass (with Simon Yearsley) April-May 2003
Although Kahiltna Queen, 3773m (aka Humble peak) had been climbed from the north and west, until this duo arrived the impressive South Face remained untouched. In an extremely successful trip with mainly good weather, they climbed both the obvious couloir systems in single pushes without bivouac kit, the left hand ('Distant Lights') at Alaskan 3+, Scottish 5 and the right hand ('South Face Couloir') at Alaskan 3+, Scottish 4, the latter to the peak's summit. Both routes were predominantly snow and 'bullet-hard black ice'.

03/35 - Kichatna 2003

Stuart McAleese (with Olly Sanders and Mike (Twid) Turner) April-May 2003
This strong team had two objectives in mind, but the weather broke while they descended from the first, putting down a metre of snow which would probably have taken a week to clear, so they had to be satisfied with one. However, in 30 hours climbing they had already made the first ascent of the 1200m 'Super Dupa Couloir' to the summit of The Citadel, 2597m, in the Kichatna Spires range of Alaska, simultaneously making the first British ascent of the peak. Of the 21 pitches, 17 were Scottish Grade 5 or above, with many sections of VI, 6 and an overall Alpine grade ED3 VI.. Descent was by 100 metre abseils down the ascent route.

03/39 - Mount Vancouver 2003

Dr Paul Knott (with Dr Erik Monasterio of NZ/Bolivia) May-June 2003
Before tackling their prime objective, this experienced duo elected to attempt the unclimbed North Peak of Mount Foresta, one of the multiple pointed summits between Mount Vancouver and Mount Seattle lying wholly in Alaska. Approaching from the east, their first attempt was thwarted by sustained difficulties, but on their second, by climbing a shallow snow rib, they joined the East Ridge at 1951m. From a camp at 2635m they were successful in reaching the North Peak where they were surprised to find that their GPS and altimeter readings of 3341m (10,960 ft) were much less than the height marked on the map (11,960 ft). However, as they were obviously lower than the South Peak (marked as 11,040 ft) they assumed that the map height was a typographical error. [This has subsequently been confirmed by the US Geological Survey.] Turning their attention to Mount Vancouver, 4812m, they camped a little beyond the BC site used in 1999 (MEF Ref: 99/38) but found that conditions had changed radically. The flat area on which their aircraft had landed four years earlier was now seamed with large crevasses, making the terrain far too dangerous for a 2-man team to traverse.

03/40 - British Foraker

Rich Cross (with Jon Bracey). May-June 2003
After acclimatising on the Moonflower Buttress & West Ridge of Mt Hunter, 4441m, and the West Buttress of Denali, 6194m, as the weather deteriorated this team turned their attention to their main objective, the first ascent of the 'awesome' 2000m SE Face of Mount Foraker, 5304m. Close examination of the route through binoculars revealed that the most promising route - via some ice runnels on the left hand side - was threatened by huge séracs, and they decided that returning home alive was more important than climbing a new route. An attempt at the consolation prize of the Infinite Spur on the south side of the mountain was foiled by the onset of a long period of bad weather, so they retreated to the fleshpots of Anchorage.

03/46 - Alaska Take Two 2003

Ms Pat Deavoll (with Marty Beare) May-June 2003
Before attempting their prime objective of a new route on the West Face of Mount Hunter, 4442m, this NZ team planned to 'warm up' (strange terminology for Alaska!) by making the first ascent of the North Face of Pk 11,520 (3511m) from the Tokositna Glacier. In this they were successful, making the first ascent of the obvious 900m couloir which rises from the valley floor to the summit cornice: descent was back down the couloir using v-threads and rock gear in a snowstorm. Most of the route consisted of 50-60 degree ice but 3 steeper ramps gave 75-85 degree climbing. Broken into 20 pitches, they graded the route at Alaskan 3+, AI 4-4+. Moving first to the Kahiltna Glacier and then to Ruth Glacier, they repeated several existing routes, but after several days camping at the bottom of the West Face of Mount Hunter in heavy snow, they withdrew because of avalanche danger.


AMERICA - SOUTH AND ANTARCTICA

03/03 - British Aguilera 2003

Dr David Hillebrandt (with Nick Banks, Allan Richards and Chris Smith). October-November 2003
Cerro Aguilera, c.2438m, is an isolated unclimbed peak on the western edge of the South Patagonia icecap, and a much desired objective for those oblivious to the local weather. Two previous expeditions (Freeman-Attwood's 98/01 and Hillebrandt's own 00/07A) had failed to even reach the peak, but following contact with the leader of an unsuccessful attempt (Matthew Hickman, 85/37) Hillebrandt felt confident. Good weather over the first few days enabled them to become established on a southern ridge, and even make the first ascent of a subsidiary peak, which gave a depressing view of Aguilera. And then the Patagonian weather hit them and buried their camp in 2 metres of snow, putting an end to any further attempt. Incredibly, Hillebrandt plans to go back again in 2004 - presumably to add to the record of 150 books and incalculable games of Patience, Five Hundred and Scrabble already played in some seven months stuck in damp tents in ferocious local storms!

03/05 - Maestri-Egger February Attempt

Alan Mullin (with Kevin Thaw). January-March 2003
Whether or not Maestri and Egger actually climbed the North Face of Cerro Torre, 3128m, in 1959 is one of the big unsolved mysteries of the mountains. This was another expedition hoping to obtain proof one way or another, but once again the weather played its part in preserving the mystery. In 2002 (MEF Ref 02/03) this duo managed to climb 360m before an accident to a third team member forced a withdrawal, but in 2003, in the worst conditions for six years they were prevented from even reaching the peak. Nevertheless, they seem determined to return!

03/09 - South Georgia 03

Dr Alun Hubbard (with Tim Hall, Dave Hildes, Stewart Holmes, Hamish Millar, Grant Redvers, Davie Robinson and Martin Stuart) January-April 2003
Continuing the Tilman sailing/climbing tradition, this team (with representatives from UK, NZ and Canada) sailed from Cape Horn with the intention of carrying out a programme of mountain exploration along the NE and SW coastlines of South Georgia. However, with the engine immobilised early on, and horrendous weather throughout the entire period (including 160 kph winds and a pressure drop of 40 mb in 5 hours), the expedition turned out to be a battle for survival and with tents blown away they were forced to bivouac in snow holes. An attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mt Paget, 2934m, was sensibly aborted at c.2450m, and attempts on Paulsen Peak, Marakoppa and Quad Five similarly abandoned due to avalanches and other objective dangers.

03/24 - Thomson-Ziegler Peruvian Andes Research 2003

Hugh Thomson (with Roz Allibone, Nicholas Asheshov, Barry Bond, Greg Danforth, David Espejo, Amy Finger, Jeff Ford, Antonia Hall, William Heath, Sandy LaJudice, Beth LaTulippe, John Leivers, Kim Malville, Robert Mrocek, Nathan Poole, Jack Vetter and Gary Ziegler). May 2003
Whilst excavating Machu Pichu in 1912, Hiram Bingham sent out reconnaissance teams to search for other Inca sites. Despite facing almost impenetrable jungle, the ruins of an Inca castle were discovered at Llactapata, but this was not thoroughly investigated, and it became overgrown and lost. By using thermal infra-red imaging from the air, this international team relocated the site at almost 3000 metres above sea level, and then carried out a detailed investigation on the ground. They found ruins of several high status building groups (including a plaza with ceremonial doorways aligned to Machu Pichu) and connecting roads scattered over several square kilometres.
[For further information see website: www.thomson.clara.net/llactapa.html ]

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03/25 - Jirishanca Re-match

Alun Powell (with Nick Bullock). May-June 2003
Jirishanca, 6094m, at the northern end of the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru is rated as one of the most difficult mountains in S America. Having experienced a 'near-death experience' due to bad weather in 2002 [MEF Ref: 02/23], this strong pair knew that the 'couloir of death' at the bottom of the SE face must be avoided unless it is completely frozen. Spending a longer time than usual acclimatising, they climbed the N Ridge of Vallunaraja, 5685m, from BC to summit in 5 hours at AD-. After assisting in a search for two Austrian climbers lost on Jirishanca Chico, they then concentrated on their main objective. They were relieved to find that the couloir was frozen, and they were able to make the first ascent of the very steep 900m ice route (which they called 'Fear and Loathing' and graded ED3, Scottish 7++ or French VII, 6+) in 3 days, taking a further day to descend.

03/27 - Tepui 2003

John Arran (with Anne Arran from UK plus Ivan Calderón, Henry Gonzales and Alfredo Rangel from Venezuela). February-April 2003
Making a return visit to Venezuela, this husband and wife team aimed to free-climb new routes on a number of tepuis and other rock faces in the Gran Sabana region. Access through the jungle to the base of any of the towers proved very difficult, and they were forced to retreat from the 1000m overhanging face of Angel Falls due to illness of one team member. However, in a six-day 21 pitch (up to E6) free-climbing assault, they were successful in making the first ascent of a 600m tower on Acópan tepui, which had not been one of their original objectives.
[For further information see website: www.thefreeclimber.com ]

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03/38 - APEX 2

Dr Roger Thompson (with Dr Luciano Bernardi, Gaia Casucci, Sorrel Cosens, David Hope-Jones, Dr John Irving, Matt Kinsey, Ian MacCormick, Alex Phythian-Adams, Prof Robert Roach, Nina Rzechorzek, Dr Alistair Simpson, Andrew Sutherland, Dr Anna Thompson, Dr Mark Toshner and Dr Karen Wood plus a large number of 'volunteer' subjects) August-October 2003
This was a longer follow-up to APEX Bolivia 2001, [MEF Ref 01/05] with a group of doctors and medical students continuing their research into the effects of altitude on a large group of 'volunteers' at the Chacaltaya laboratory, 5200m above sea level. With the group split into five teams, a total of 14 separate research projects were undertaken. Although the victims might not agree, the high incidence of AMS experienced during the expedition provided excellent scope for the researchers, who will be busy for some time analysing the results of their studies. Following their participation in the medical research, the volunteers were free to travel in Bolivia, and a number of peaks between 5500 and 6500 metres were climbed by traditional routes.
[For further information see expedition website: www.apex-altitude.com ]

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GREENLAND

03/14 - SMC Greenland 2003

Stephen Reid (with Hamish Irvine, Colwyn Jones and Jonathan Preston). July-August 2003
In 1996 [MEF Ref 96/27], Preston and Reid made the first ascent of the North-West Ridge of Dansketinde, 2930m, the highest peak in the Staunings Alps, and this return visit aimed at making the first ascents of its South and/or South-West Ridges. After being dropped by helicopter at Col Major, c.2100m, they acclimatised by climbing the peak by the Original Route, marking it with wands to guide them during future descents. Following a few days of mixed weather and some reconnaissance trips, they next made an attempt on the S Ridge, but abandoned this at a steep wall at two-thirds height. In a 17½ hour 'push' a successful ascent of the SW Ridge was then achieved at a grade of TD-. After more bad weather, another attempt was made on the S Ridge: this time they were more fortunate, and in a round trip of 30 hours the ridge was climbed at TD+. In addition to the climbing, some rock samples were collected for Oslo University.

03/17 - Wales Greenland 2003

Ms Sue Savege (with Di Gilbert, Rosie Goolden and Catrin Thomas plus film-maker Justine Curgenven). July-August 2003
This all female expedition planned to explore and climb new routes in Schweizerland. Delayed by bad weather for 3 days en route to base camp, they then had 9 clear days before the bad weather returned. During this time, they climbed new routes on the S Ridge of Tupilak, 2264m, two new routes on. Pt 1760m (The Coven), and two on Pt 1720m, and also repeated the S Pillar route on Rodebjerg, 2140m.

03/20 - British Knud Rasmussen Land 2003

Bob Dawson (with John Diplock, Mark Diplock, Jan Lancaster and Steve Long) July-August 2003
Knud Rasmussen Land is one of the least visited areas of E Greenland, so gave plenty of scope for this team to explore and make first ascents. They soon discovered that the rock was extremely friable, so as far as possible kept to snow and ice routes up to Scottish Grade III. Operating from three different camps, over a 20 day period and with a wide temperature variation, they made the first ascent of 20 peaks at the eastern end of the glacier, the highest being 2620m.

03/21 - British Southern Kangerdlugssuaq 2003

Dr Brian Davison (with Pete Brookes, Bill Church, Clive Dandridge, Pete Nelson, Mike Pettipher, Graham Robinson and Dave Wilkinson). July-August 2003
A ski-equipped Twin Otter from Iceland landed this team close to their intended base camp at 1700m in a snow basin at the head of the Nordre and Søndre Parallelgletschers. From here, in a period of settled weather, a number of sledge trips were made to climb mountains in the vicinity. Many of them do not have spot heights marked on maps, and those that do were not all found to be accurate. However, a total of 35 peaks up to 2600m were climbed, all thought to be first ascents.

03/22 - British Australian Torssukatak Spires 2003

Jon Roberts (with Dewi Durban and James Mehican plus Richard Sonnerdale from Australia) July-August 2003
This team of rock climbers selected the Cape Farewell area in the south for their first visit to Greenland. A new 1400m E3 5c route 'The Cruise Line', was achieved on The Thumbnail (E Face of Agdlerussakasit, first climbed by Ian Parnell's 00/35), plus several other fancifully-named rock routes. Two peaks also received their first ascents, Mark - 'Called into Question', 450m E2 5b and The Butler - 'The Cripple and the Tortoise', 200m E2 5c A1. All routes were climbed free and on-sight without the use of fixed ropes, pegs or bolts.

03/29 - Prins Christian Sund 2003

Ben Heason (with Nick Boden, Tom Briggs, Miles Gibson, Adrian Jebb, Steve McClure, Rob Mirfin and Simon Moore). June-July 2003
The prime objective of this team of rock climbers was the first ascent of an unnamed granite peak immediately East of Igdlorsuitt Havn in the Prins Christian Sund area of South Greenland: this had been recommended by members of a previous expedition to the area. However, being there much earlier than their predecessors, they found the peak covered in snow, making it impractical given their equipment and time constraints. They therefore turned their attention to a fallback objective, the west face of Igdlorsuitt Havn Tower, where they were successful in putting up several routes: Cryptic Crossword (500m E3 5c), Wonderful Life/Turning Point (1115m, E6 6b), Waiting for the Sun (865m E7 6c) and Twenty One (800m E7 6c) as well as countless boulder routes in the vicinity of their base camp.

03/33 - Midnight Sun 03

Martin Bohl (with Bob Appleyard, Guy Beaumont, Rob Coles, Sean Dolan, Sue Dolan, Mike Palmer & Phill Smithson). July 2003
This team chose the Rignys Bjerg range of mountains in Eastern Greenland for their expedition, as easy - though not cheap - access could be arranged using the services of Tangent Expeditions, and it was expected to suit the varied ability of the team. With predominantly good weather throughout, this proved to be right. Although the jury is still out on whether there is such a thing as a peak called 'Rignysbjerg', they managed to climb virtually everything in sight, recording a total of 34 peaks up to 2797m, including 22 first ascents.

03/34 - Scottish East Greenland 2003

Malcolm Thorburn (with Douglas Campbell) June-August 2003
On completion of expeditions to the area in 1997 (MEF Ref 97/15) and 1999 (99/16) these regular 'Greenlanders' showed amazing confidence in caching their pulks etc at the edge of the ice-cap for return visits, thus saving the problems (and costs) of re-importing each time. After being dropped by helicopter and confirming equipment serviceability, they set out on a return journey of 150km to visit 4 specific areas previously identified, hoping to attempt 6 key first ascents. However, conditions in 2003 were found to be very difficult, with deteriorating weather reducing daily distances to 3 - 5 km, and at one stage they were tent-bound for 6 days. As a result, although 5 peaks were climbed - 3 being first ascents - these did not include any of their intended major objectives.

03/44 - Scottish Lemon Mountains 2003

Graham Stein (with Alison Callum, Iain Hall, Andy Lole, Brian Moretta, Phil Reynolds, John Sanders, Andy Saxby, Clare Stein and Jago Trasler) June-July 2003
The Lemon Mountains have proved to be a very attractive destination for expeditions in recent years, but this team proved that they still offer scope for first ascents. After setting up a base camp on the Hedgehog Glacier, and operating mainly in pairs, they explored the area between the Lucy & Courtauld Glaciers, and achieved first ascents of eight peaks of approximately 2000 metres. The expedition ended with a frantic dash to reach their pick-up point in time, only to find that the aircraft was delayed by bad weather.


HIMALAYA - INDIA

03/13 - Caving in the Abode of the Clouds 2003

Simon Brooks (with Annie Audsley, Nicola Bayley, Mark Brown, Dr Tony Boycott, Pete Dowswell, Paul Edmunds, Roger Galloway, Martin Groves, Dan Harries, Andrew Harp, Tony Jarratt, Derek Pettiglio, Fraser Simpson, Jayne Stead & Fiona Ware from UK plus 7 cavers from Germany, 1 each from Austria & Switzerland and 9 from the local Meghalaya Adventurers' Association). February-March 2003
'Abode of the Clouds' is the literal translation of the Sanskrit word 'Meghalaya', the name of the 21st state of India. Although there had been previous caving expeditions to the state (including MEF Reference 98/51, also led by Brooks) this was one of the largest multi-national teams ever to visit. In a marathon effort covering two specific areas - Shnongrim Ridge and the Borsora Garo - 47 'new' caves were visited, and the locations of 90 others recorded, whilst 25.7 km of new passage was explored, photographed and surveyed, bringing the local total to almost 240 km. Many caves started with a 60-90 metre deep entrance series broken into 3 or 4 pitches giving access to many kilometres of large streamway and trunk passage. A Meghalaya Cave Data Base has been created which currently records 750 cave sites, of which only 252 have so far been explored.


HIMALAYA - NEPAL

03/16 - British Annapurna III SW Ridge

Kenton Cool (with Ian Parnell plus John Varco from USA) September-November 2003
Although previously attempted by at least 3 siege-style expeditions, the SW Ridge of Annapurna III, 7550m, had so far resisted all comers, but this team felt that the route lent itself to an Alpine Style approach, which proved to be true. The 2500m route consisted of a 650m rock buttress, 1000m of snow and ice followed by another 200m of rock before a long ridge which took all three to the summit. Although the weather was generally good, they experienced strong cold winds,

03/31 - Khumbu 2003 Alpine Style

Nick Bullock (with Jules Cartwright and Alun Powell) November-December 2003
Because of the bureaucracy involved with expeditions to higher peaks, this team selected new routes on so-called 'trekking peaks' as their objectives, the first being the NW face of Teng Kangpoche, c.6500m. An attempt by all 3 climbers had to be abandoned at 5400m when Bullock became sick and delirious. Safely back down, Powell had to return to the UK at this stage but Cartwright and Bullock (now recovered), returned to the fray. However, the weather had deteriorated, and no further progress could be made. To the left of the obvious rock buttress in the middle of the north face, the NE Face offered an alternative possibility, so Bullock decided to attempt this on his own. He successfully climbed the entire face to the point where it joined the East Ridge, and continued as far as a large crevasse in which he bivvied overnight. Unfortunately, beyond here the final slope was too dangerous to continue solo, so having reached within about 150m of the summit, he regretfully decided to abandon his attempt. He gave the route an overall grade of D+/TD-.


CHINA AND TIBET

03/11 - Craven Pothole Club China 2003

Kevin Gannon (with Tracey Beasley, Nick Blundell, Michael Bottomley, Arthur Champion, Mike Clayton, Pete Jones, Karen Lane, Dave Milner, Paul Norman, Bryan Norton, Emma Porter, Dr Patrick Warren and Michael Whitehouse). March-April 2003
Continuing the long running China Caves Project to further the development of karst Research in China, this team worked with Normal University of Guilin to explore two separate karst areas - Jingxi and Pingguo - in Guangxi Province close to the border with Vietnam. In total, they explored 44 caves, surveying and photographing 21.4 km of passage. Particularly interesting sites found were Yin Quan and Won Long Dong (Sleeping Dragon Cave), which contained two very large well decorated chambers of 20,000 and 15,000 square metres, so a future return visit seems inevitable.

03/18 - Virgin Summits - Tibet 2003

Adam Thomas (with Phil Amos & Graham Rowbotham from UK and Bryan Godfrey from NZ). September-October 2003
As a result of recent exploration by Tamotsu Nakamura of the Japanese Alpine Club, the Nyainqentangla East range of Tibet is becoming a popular venue for climbers such as these, who are seeking something different. Unfortunately, when they arrived, the access road was closed due to landslides, losing them over a week, and preventing them accessing any of their chosen peaks. However, they did attempt the unclimbed Chukporisum, 6359m, but aborted within 200 metres of the summit rather than risk cold injuries. They then completed a circumnavigation of the northern section of the range, making the first western crossings of two passes (of 5300m & 5100m) in the process, and revealing the immense potential that awaits future visitors, with some 30 peaks over 6000m, mostly unclimbed.
[For further information see website: www.virginsummits.org ]

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03/36 - British Qomo Lhari 2003

Ms Julie-Ann Clyma (with Roger Payne) October-November 2003
Although permits to attempt the NW Ridge of Qomo Lhari (7314m) in Yadong County of Tibet were received some time prior to departure, they were rescinded at the last minute due to military exercises in the area, so an alternative objective had to be chosen. Following discussions with their local guide/interpreter in Chengdu and their own earlier research, they decided that Mount Grosvenor, 6376m, in Sichuan Province, would be a good alternative. Despite the climbing being mainly on very thin ice and nevé up to Scottish Grade 6 with poor protection and considerable rope damage, they were successful in making its first ascent via the cold North Face and West Ridge. Descent was initially via the SE Ridge before traversing round to the north and abseiling from a col between Mt Grosvenor and Jiazi, 6540m. On their return to Kangding, the team received great hospitality from local officials, who seemed keen to encourage mountaineers from overseas to visit China and Sichuan. [See also 03/42A below]

03/42A - British Mt Grosvenor

Mick Fowler (with Andy Cave, Neil McAdie and Simon Nadin). April-May 2003
The Daxue Shan Range of Sichuan Province (dominated by the 7556m Gongga Shan) is largely unexplored, and contains several 6000m peaks which have never even been attempted. One of these was Mt Grosvenor (aka Gonga-Konga), 6376m - a satellite peak of Minya Konka - of which the team hoped to make the first ascent by a route on its steep NW Face. Although located at 3800m, surprisingly their base camp was surrounded by the tents of over one hundred local people hunting caterpillar fungus - apparently a valuable aphrodisiac. A serious disadvantage of this was that during their first foray on the hill, their camp was plundered and most of their food disappeared, necessitating a 45 km round-trip to Kangding to re-stock. From the BC, Fowler and Cave attempted the Central Couloir, and although this provided some shelter from the variable weather (it snowed every day) after several days climbing, extreme danger from loose rock forced them to abandon at half height. Meanwhile, on the more exposed right hand side of the face, McAdie and Nadin experienced continuous spindrift and also had to abandon. [See also 03/36 above]

03/47A - British Da Kangri

John Town (with Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott and Martin Scott). September 2003
The objective of this team was an elegant 6270m double-peaked mountain in Toling Dechen county, a mountainous area in the south of the Nyanchen Tangla range of Tibet, which - as far as was known - had never previously been attempted. Satellite photographs and Russian military maps identified the chosen peak as Da Kangri (Horse Peak) and enabled accurate interpretation of the terrain, so although the locals called it Beu-tse (Calf Peak), they were able to guide their Land Cruisers up back roads to establish Base Camp at 4645m only 3 hours after leaving Lhasa: unnervingly, this turned out to be well within earshot of automatic fire from Chinese military manoeuvres in the next valley. From here, two routes were considered: the long West Ridge rising abruptly above BC, or a hanging valley to its north which led to the foot of the NW Face. They chose the latter, and after placing two intermediate camps reached the summit in about 6¾ hours climbing, descending the same way. The sustained and exposed nature of the route made it Alpine D+.

03/49 - Hong Meigui Yunnan 2003

Ms Hilary Greaves (with Helen Blyth, Duncan Collis, Richard Gerrish, Martin Hicks, Martin Laverty, Gavin Lowe, Lenic Saymo and Pete Talling). July-August 2003
This was a follow-up to expedition Ref 02/48, planned to obtain a better understanding of the caves in the extensive mountain area between Jinsha Jiang and Zhongdian in North Yunnan. A total of 57 cave entrances were logged, mostly at altitudes between 3800m and 4200m and although the greatest depth achieved during the trip was only 75m, a large resurgence cave which could not be entered in the high-water summer conditions indicated considerable further potential. So excited was the team that a return visit is already being discussed.
[For further information see expedition website:http://milos2.zoo.ox.ac.ukhilary/yunnan2003/ homepage.htm ]

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CENTRAL ASIA AND THE FAR EAST

03/06 - 2003 British Kyrgyz-Kuilu

Dr Robin Gibson (with Dr Martin Astley, Andy Bond, John Buckle, Dr Andy Cole, Bill Dean, Mike Evans, Nev Croston, Malcolm Eldridge, Gwyn Ingram, Phill Reay, Dr John Tranter, Angela Wright and Robert Wright). August 2003
This expedition was intended to enable members to celebrate the fiftieth birthday of the Chester Mountaineering Club, so had to cater for a wide range of abilities. Being little visited, the Kuilu-Too Range of Kyrgyzstan was therefore selected as the venue, as it gave opportunities for exploration and first ascents of a range of peaks in excess of 4000m Operating as 5 separate teams, the party achieved first ascents of at least 7 peaks between 4100m and 4780m and from UK grade II scramble/PD to D.

03/12 - Vietnam 2003

Howard Limbert (with John Atkinson, Anette Becher, Robbie Burke, Martin Colledge, Chris Densham, Dr Danielle Gemenis, Martin Holroyd, Paul Ibberson, Deb Limbert, Peter MacNab, Duncan Morrison, Gareth Sewall, Ian Watson and Anthony Wood plus several Vietnamese cavers). February - April 2003
For some team members, this was their eighth caving expedition to Vietnam undertaken in conjunction with cavers from Hanoi University. As well as returning to previously visited areas, several others were also visited, the main successes being in the northern province of Cao Bang near the Chinese border. Some bureaucratic problems were encountered close to the Laos border, but as there had been no recent heavy rain, water levels were low and they managed to explore the three largest systems in Vietnam, adding 44.8 km of 'new' cave passage to that previously known.

03/30 - Eagle Ski Club Ak Shiirak 2003

Steve Wright (with Mike Sharp, Joost van der Valk and Dave Wynne-Jones). April-May 2003
Plans to make a ski traverse of the entire Ak Shiirak Range of mountains (in the Kyrgyz Republic) were thwarted to some extent when it was found that the intended access route to the Kara Su valley (over the Suek Pass) was blocked by heavy snow and avalanches. Undeterred, in double-carries the team ferried all the expedition supplies over the Ak-Bel Pass instead, adding 40 km to the start of the expedition, and using up valuable time in the process. In the time remaining they were only able to penetrate the range as far as the Kara Su glacier, but from here they were able to assess the rest of their intended route. They also confirmed the potential of the range for ski mountaineering, and made first ski ascents of a number of significant peaks up to 4600 metres. They also certainly achieved one of their defined aims: 'To have a good time'!


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