Patron: H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., K.T.
Report of the Chairman 2000 - 2001
With the ever increasing bureaucratic costs of mounting expeditions to the Himalaya and Karakoram, Greenland was the most popular destination in 2000, with visits from 6 teams. That there are still plenty of virgin summits in Greenland was confirmed, as between them they made over 40 first ascents. However, 'big-wall' climbers have also realised the potential for practising their craft: both ?The Thumbnail? and the North Face of Sanderson's Hope were climbed.
With its relatively simple logistics, North America attracted 5 expeditions. In Alaska, despite high winds and unconsolidated snow, new routes were climbed on Mount Hunter and The Crown Jewel and there were first ascents of a number of minor peaks. Poor weather also affected expeditions to Canada, but a team in the St Elias range made the first ascent of Mt Baird, and another team climbed 3 peaks in the Yukon.
In South America, Argentina Bolivia and Chile each attracted 2 expeditions. Despite its notorious weather, Patagonia seems to attract a dedicated band of masochists, but both teams to the Fitz Roy National Park (Argentina) returned home unsuccessful, whilst the two to Chile failed to achieve their prime objectives, but carried out useful exploration. The Quimsa Cruz of Bolivia was rather kinder to its visitors, enabling a number of first ascents and new routes.
Further south, a team hoping to make the first ascent of Cape Renard Tower on the edge of Antarctica turned back 100 metres from the summit, below a blank wall that would only succumb with the use of bolts, which they were not prepared to do as it was against their ethics.
There were mixed results in the Himalaya. Having climbed Arwa Tower (in the Garhwal area of India) in 1999, some of the team returned to 'finish the job', and successfully summited on Arwa Spire, but in Kullu, the SW Ridge of Parbati South resisted yet another party. In Nepal, a team visiting the Janak Himal discovered that the mountain range was more complex than they had anticipated, but nevertheless made the first ascent of Danga II. Less fortunate was an expedition to Chamar in the Sringi Himal, as a local lama refused to recognise their permit, and they were threatened with being stoned to death if they attempted the peak. Somewhat un-nerved, they tried it from a different side, but were forced to retreat due to high avalanche risk. Although the MEF rarely supports one-man expeditions, plans to explore the southern side of Sepu Kangri in Tibet met all the other criteria, so the trip went ahead, returning to UK with extremely valuable topographical information.
Expeditions do not only face ?natural? challenges: an Anglo-New Zealand expedition visiting the Hindu Raj of Pakistan had much of its food confiscated because it contained pork, but even on the enforced restricted diet they managed to achieve the first ascent they had planned. Elsewhere in the country, the previously unvisited Solu Valley provided a first ascent for another team, but two other expeditions - one to the Hucho Alchori and one to Pumari Chhish - were thwarted by stonefall and avalanche risk.
Elsewhere, a Service expedition explored the Dzungarian Alatau of Southern Kazakhstan making 7 first ascents and collecting data compiled in a Geographic Information System (GIS). In Kenya a team reached the summit of Mount Poi via its previously unclimbed North Face. Although adhering to a strict 'no-bolt' philosophy, one pitch was only climbed following a 'lasso that would have been the envy of the pampas'! Low's Gully on Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia has been the scene of a number of descents, but until 2000, no-one had succeeded in climbing up its East face, so it was ironic that when a British team with a tight timescale arrived, a group of Spanish climbers was just completing a 40-day ascent. Undeterred, the British team topped out themselves via a new route in a mere 15 days.
Both the caving expeditions supported in the year - one to Guanxi in China and the other to Sarawak in Malaysia - discovered and surveyed new passages, and carried out useful scientific studies.
One of the prime reasons for the existence of the Foundation is to disseminate information about the mountains of the world. In pursuance of this, in December 2000, the MEF joined with the British Mountaineering Council at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival to present lectures on some of the year's most successful expeditions. We are delighted to be combining with them again this year both in Kendal (16th - 18th November) and at the 'Festival of Climbing' in Birmingham (7th - 9th December).
No doubt the recent terrorist outrages in the USA will change the world - and particularly international travel - for ever, but in the sincere hope that they will be able to go ahead as planned, the first batch of applications for 2002 expeditions will shortly be assessed by the Screening Committee. Next year, 2002, will be the International Year of Mountains, with both the RGS and the Alpine Club involved in a number of events across the UK. As explained on the news page of this site, a separate sub-Committee is already at work planning an exciting programme to celebrate the Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest in 2003.
At the forthcoming Annual General Meeting, two RGS representatives - Professor Bob Schroter and Mr Nigel Winser, as well as Derek Fordham representing the Alpine Club - will complete their six-year terms of office on the Committee of Management. In addition Shane Winser will complete her six-year stint as an RGS representative on the Screening Committee. I would like to record the sincere thanks of the Foundation to all of them.
I would also like to warmly thank Lindsay Griffin, chair of the Screening Committee, for bringing his considerable experience and knowledge of the world's mountains to formulating difficult decisions on an increasing number of applications, for patiently chairing long meetings, and for advice on MEF strategy. Many thanks also to Richard Morgan, our Treasurer, for keeping me well-informed and ensuring that our funds are well-managed, especially in the current volatile situation. Finally, very special thanks to Bill Ruthven, our Honorary Secretary, for his dedication, efficiency, and enthusiasm, in spite of being confined to a wheel-chair and too frequent visits to hospital, from which we have received a number of dispatches laced with his trademark humour - just as good as many of the best accounts of mountaineering exploits in difficult circumstances!
Martin Price, Chairman MEF Committee of Management, September 2001
With its relatively simple logistics, North America attracted 5 expeditions. In Alaska, despite high winds and unconsolidated snow, new routes were climbed on Mount Hunter and The Crown Jewel and there were first ascents of a number of minor peaks. Poor weather also affected expeditions to Canada, but a team in the St Elias range made the first ascent of Mt Baird, and another team climbed 3 peaks in the Yukon.
In South America, Argentina Bolivia and Chile each attracted 2 expeditions. Despite its notorious weather, Patagonia seems to attract a dedicated band of masochists, but both teams to the Fitz Roy National Park (Argentina) returned home unsuccessful, whilst the two to Chile failed to achieve their prime objectives, but carried out useful exploration. The Quimsa Cruz of Bolivia was rather kinder to its visitors, enabling a number of first ascents and new routes.
Further south, a team hoping to make the first ascent of Cape Renard Tower on the edge of Antarctica turned back 100 metres from the summit, below a blank wall that would only succumb with the use of bolts, which they were not prepared to do as it was against their ethics.
There were mixed results in the Himalaya. Having climbed Arwa Tower (in the Garhwal area of India) in 1999, some of the team returned to 'finish the job', and successfully summited on Arwa Spire, but in Kullu, the SW Ridge of Parbati South resisted yet another party. In Nepal, a team visiting the Janak Himal discovered that the mountain range was more complex than they had anticipated, but nevertheless made the first ascent of Danga II. Less fortunate was an expedition to Chamar in the Sringi Himal, as a local lama refused to recognise their permit, and they were threatened with being stoned to death if they attempted the peak. Somewhat un-nerved, they tried it from a different side, but were forced to retreat due to high avalanche risk. Although the MEF rarely supports one-man expeditions, plans to explore the southern side of Sepu Kangri in Tibet met all the other criteria, so the trip went ahead, returning to UK with extremely valuable topographical information.
Expeditions do not only face ?natural? challenges: an Anglo-New Zealand expedition visiting the Hindu Raj of Pakistan had much of its food confiscated because it contained pork, but even on the enforced restricted diet they managed to achieve the first ascent they had planned. Elsewhere in the country, the previously unvisited Solu Valley provided a first ascent for another team, but two other expeditions - one to the Hucho Alchori and one to Pumari Chhish - were thwarted by stonefall and avalanche risk.
Elsewhere, a Service expedition explored the Dzungarian Alatau of Southern Kazakhstan making 7 first ascents and collecting data compiled in a Geographic Information System (GIS). In Kenya a team reached the summit of Mount Poi via its previously unclimbed North Face. Although adhering to a strict 'no-bolt' philosophy, one pitch was only climbed following a 'lasso that would have been the envy of the pampas'! Low's Gully on Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia has been the scene of a number of descents, but until 2000, no-one had succeeded in climbing up its East face, so it was ironic that when a British team with a tight timescale arrived, a group of Spanish climbers was just completing a 40-day ascent. Undeterred, the British team topped out themselves via a new route in a mere 15 days.
Both the caving expeditions supported in the year - one to Guanxi in China and the other to Sarawak in Malaysia - discovered and surveyed new passages, and carried out useful scientific studies.
One of the prime reasons for the existence of the Foundation is to disseminate information about the mountains of the world. In pursuance of this, in December 2000, the MEF joined with the British Mountaineering Council at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival to present lectures on some of the year's most successful expeditions. We are delighted to be combining with them again this year both in Kendal (16th - 18th November) and at the 'Festival of Climbing' in Birmingham (7th - 9th December).
No doubt the recent terrorist outrages in the USA will change the world - and particularly international travel - for ever, but in the sincere hope that they will be able to go ahead as planned, the first batch of applications for 2002 expeditions will shortly be assessed by the Screening Committee. Next year, 2002, will be the International Year of Mountains, with both the RGS and the Alpine Club involved in a number of events across the UK. As explained on the news page of this site, a separate sub-Committee is already at work planning an exciting programme to celebrate the Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest in 2003.
At the forthcoming Annual General Meeting, two RGS representatives - Professor Bob Schroter and Mr Nigel Winser, as well as Derek Fordham representing the Alpine Club - will complete their six-year terms of office on the Committee of Management. In addition Shane Winser will complete her six-year stint as an RGS representative on the Screening Committee. I would like to record the sincere thanks of the Foundation to all of them.
I would also like to warmly thank Lindsay Griffin, chair of the Screening Committee, for bringing his considerable experience and knowledge of the world's mountains to formulating difficult decisions on an increasing number of applications, for patiently chairing long meetings, and for advice on MEF strategy. Many thanks also to Richard Morgan, our Treasurer, for keeping me well-informed and ensuring that our funds are well-managed, especially in the current volatile situation. Finally, very special thanks to Bill Ruthven, our Honorary Secretary, for his dedication, efficiency, and enthusiasm, in spite of being confined to a wheel-chair and too frequent visits to hospital, from which we have received a number of dispatches laced with his trademark humour - just as good as many of the best accounts of mountaineering exploits in difficult circumstances!
Martin Price, Chairman MEF Committee of Management, September 2001
