Patron: H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., K.T.
Report of the Chairman for 2002 - 2003
The Mount Everest Foundation continues to be as active as ever, with a fine success rate for expeditions helped during 2002. We simply wish we had more funds to support some bold ventures.
During the year, four expeditions to North America were supported, most of which recorded successes, although not always on the originally intended objectives. A two-man team hoped to climb from the Donjek Glacier in Canada, but poor visibility made access difficult, so operating from the Eclipse Glacier in USA and the Goat Glacier in Canada, they achieved first ascents of 5 peaks plus 3 new routes. Of the three parties in Alaska, the most outstanding result was by another two-man team which made the first 'free' ascent of Denali Diamond in 5 days - 12 days less than the first ascent! Another team judged the approach to Mount Hunter to be unjustifiably dangerous due to séracs, so attempted the Harvard Route on the French Ridge of Mt Huntington instead, but gave up after climbing 26 pitches in good time when they discovered that the next - usually an icy chimney - contained neither ice nor snow, just ?creaking loose boulders?.
There were also four expeditions to South America, each to a different country. A team in Bolivia climbed three peaks in the Cordillera Apolobamba, whilst one in Peru - although unsuccessful on its main objective (Jirishanca) - climbed the impressive N Face of Ulta in the Cordillera Blanca. Down in Patagonia, for once it was not the weather which prevented success. A team on the Maestri-Egger route on Cerro Torre (Argentina) had to retreat when one member sustained a serious ankle injury: fortunately he has since made a good recovery. In Chile a party hoping to climb new routes on the Towers of Paine decided that there were no obvious lines on the Towers that would succumb to their 'free' style, so turned their attention to other peaks instead, making a number of free ascents of lines on Cerro Mascara, Paine Chico and others.
Two expeditions to Greenland recorded the successes that seem to be the norm there. One team achieved many first ascents on both the South and the untrodden North Lemon Mountains, whilst further north, a Cambridge team in Louise Boyd Land climbed six new routes in addition to carrying out a programme of geological and glaciological research. A scientific team from Wales carried out a GPS survey of two glacier systems in Svalbard, from which it should be possible to determine future volume change.
At the other end of the earth, another expedition combining science with mountaineering sailed from New Zealand to the Antarctic, and achieved first ascents of peaks on both the peninsula and a number of islands, as well as diving on several wrecks.
The mountains of the Himalaya were less popular than in previous years, only attracting seven expeditions, four to India and three to China & Tibet. In India an Anglo-Irish expedition to the Garhwal found on arrival that there were a number of map errors, so instead of climbing their original objective, they made the first ascent of Pk 6175 by its SE Ridge, and carried out a valuable photographic survey of other peaks in the area. Also in the Garhwal, the Shark's Fin on the East Face of Mera Central once again proved inviolate with an unheard of one metre of snow at base camp due to a late end to the monsoon. In the Kumaon Himalaya, a combined British-Indian expedition was more fortunate, and achieved the first ascent of Suitilla West. The two-woman team which received the Alison Chadwick Memorial Grant for 2002 explored the Gyundi Glacier area, discovering a number of peaks over 6000 metres, and making the first ascent of an un-named peak of c.5000m.
In China, a team hoping to climb granite walls in the Qiongla mountains of Sichuan had limited success, attempting 2 routes but being forced to abandon both without reaching the 5000m summits, due to bad weather. Another team in Sichuan was more successful, making the spectacular first ascent of Siguniang via its N Face. A team to the Nyewo Chu of Eastern Nyenchen Tangla (not visited by any Briton since Kingdon Ward in 1936), returned with a useful photographic record of the many unclimbed peaks in the area.
Three expeditions to Kyrgyzstan were supported, each recording successes. One to the Kyokkiar Range made 4 first ascents plus 3 in the nearby Gory Sarybeles Range whilst a Scottish team planning to make a first ascent on Kyzyl Asker was unable to access the West face and failed on the SE Face, but climbed two other nearby peaks. Another team to Borkoldoy in the Tien Shan carried out a successful exploration, and climbed three peaks up to 4800m.
Of the two expeditions to Mongolia, one ran into access problems due to an outbreak of foot and mouth disease, but nevertheless achieved a number of ascents including the first ascent of a fine alpine ridge, whilst the other carried out some useful exploration and achieved several first British ascents and one new route.
Two caving expeditions were supported, one to North Yunnan in China which identified a number of promising areas for further study, and the other to Tyva in Southern Siberia, which recorded some success.
Unusually, the MEF also supported two UK based projects, one planning to create a High Altitude Medicine & Physiology website which should form a useful reference for future high altitude expeditions, and the other a detailed study of the Mallory & Irvine artefacts found on the north side of Everest in 1999, which in some ways are still superior to modern equipment 75 years later. Both these projects will be continuing into 2003.
In November 2002, the MEF was again delighted to join the British Mountaineering Council at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival, with leaders of three of the year's expeditions telling the stories of their trips. Plans are already in hand for the 2003 Festival to be held from 13th to 16th November.
With ever increasing problems in Asia, the majority of expeditions in 2003 have been attracted to Greenland and the Americas where, hopefully, they will encounter less bureaucracy and more political stability. At a recent meeting, the Committee of Management offered support to 39 teams.
As I complete this, we are in the final stages of planning the celebration of the Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest. In view of the current world financial situation and the resultant reduction in value of the grants that we can offer, we are using the occasion to launch a major Appeal for funds.
Lastly, the MEF relies heavily on the work and goodwill of volunteers, and we are very grateful to all of them, particularly Lindsay Griffin (Chairman of the Screening Committee), Richard Morgan (Hon Treasurer) and - despite being confined to a wheelchair - Bill Ruthven (Hon Secretary). We were delighted that Bill's efforts on behalf of the MEF were recently recognised by the Central Council of Physical Recreation, when he was presented with a Torch Trophy Trust Award by HRH Princess Alexandra.
Dr Charles Clarke - Chairman MEF
May 2003
During the year, four expeditions to North America were supported, most of which recorded successes, although not always on the originally intended objectives. A two-man team hoped to climb from the Donjek Glacier in Canada, but poor visibility made access difficult, so operating from the Eclipse Glacier in USA and the Goat Glacier in Canada, they achieved first ascents of 5 peaks plus 3 new routes. Of the three parties in Alaska, the most outstanding result was by another two-man team which made the first 'free' ascent of Denali Diamond in 5 days - 12 days less than the first ascent! Another team judged the approach to Mount Hunter to be unjustifiably dangerous due to séracs, so attempted the Harvard Route on the French Ridge of Mt Huntington instead, but gave up after climbing 26 pitches in good time when they discovered that the next - usually an icy chimney - contained neither ice nor snow, just ?creaking loose boulders?.
There were also four expeditions to South America, each to a different country. A team in Bolivia climbed three peaks in the Cordillera Apolobamba, whilst one in Peru - although unsuccessful on its main objective (Jirishanca) - climbed the impressive N Face of Ulta in the Cordillera Blanca. Down in Patagonia, for once it was not the weather which prevented success. A team on the Maestri-Egger route on Cerro Torre (Argentina) had to retreat when one member sustained a serious ankle injury: fortunately he has since made a good recovery. In Chile a party hoping to climb new routes on the Towers of Paine decided that there were no obvious lines on the Towers that would succumb to their 'free' style, so turned their attention to other peaks instead, making a number of free ascents of lines on Cerro Mascara, Paine Chico and others.
Two expeditions to Greenland recorded the successes that seem to be the norm there. One team achieved many first ascents on both the South and the untrodden North Lemon Mountains, whilst further north, a Cambridge team in Louise Boyd Land climbed six new routes in addition to carrying out a programme of geological and glaciological research. A scientific team from Wales carried out a GPS survey of two glacier systems in Svalbard, from which it should be possible to determine future volume change.
At the other end of the earth, another expedition combining science with mountaineering sailed from New Zealand to the Antarctic, and achieved first ascents of peaks on both the peninsula and a number of islands, as well as diving on several wrecks.
The mountains of the Himalaya were less popular than in previous years, only attracting seven expeditions, four to India and three to China & Tibet. In India an Anglo-Irish expedition to the Garhwal found on arrival that there were a number of map errors, so instead of climbing their original objective, they made the first ascent of Pk 6175 by its SE Ridge, and carried out a valuable photographic survey of other peaks in the area. Also in the Garhwal, the Shark's Fin on the East Face of Mera Central once again proved inviolate with an unheard of one metre of snow at base camp due to a late end to the monsoon. In the Kumaon Himalaya, a combined British-Indian expedition was more fortunate, and achieved the first ascent of Suitilla West. The two-woman team which received the Alison Chadwick Memorial Grant for 2002 explored the Gyundi Glacier area, discovering a number of peaks over 6000 metres, and making the first ascent of an un-named peak of c.5000m.
In China, a team hoping to climb granite walls in the Qiongla mountains of Sichuan had limited success, attempting 2 routes but being forced to abandon both without reaching the 5000m summits, due to bad weather. Another team in Sichuan was more successful, making the spectacular first ascent of Siguniang via its N Face. A team to the Nyewo Chu of Eastern Nyenchen Tangla (not visited by any Briton since Kingdon Ward in 1936), returned with a useful photographic record of the many unclimbed peaks in the area.
Three expeditions to Kyrgyzstan were supported, each recording successes. One to the Kyokkiar Range made 4 first ascents plus 3 in the nearby Gory Sarybeles Range whilst a Scottish team planning to make a first ascent on Kyzyl Asker was unable to access the West face and failed on the SE Face, but climbed two other nearby peaks. Another team to Borkoldoy in the Tien Shan carried out a successful exploration, and climbed three peaks up to 4800m.
Of the two expeditions to Mongolia, one ran into access problems due to an outbreak of foot and mouth disease, but nevertheless achieved a number of ascents including the first ascent of a fine alpine ridge, whilst the other carried out some useful exploration and achieved several first British ascents and one new route.
Two caving expeditions were supported, one to North Yunnan in China which identified a number of promising areas for further study, and the other to Tyva in Southern Siberia, which recorded some success.
Unusually, the MEF also supported two UK based projects, one planning to create a High Altitude Medicine & Physiology website which should form a useful reference for future high altitude expeditions, and the other a detailed study of the Mallory & Irvine artefacts found on the north side of Everest in 1999, which in some ways are still superior to modern equipment 75 years later. Both these projects will be continuing into 2003.
In November 2002, the MEF was again delighted to join the British Mountaineering Council at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival, with leaders of three of the year's expeditions telling the stories of their trips. Plans are already in hand for the 2003 Festival to be held from 13th to 16th November.
With ever increasing problems in Asia, the majority of expeditions in 2003 have been attracted to Greenland and the Americas where, hopefully, they will encounter less bureaucracy and more political stability. At a recent meeting, the Committee of Management offered support to 39 teams.
As I complete this, we are in the final stages of planning the celebration of the Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest. In view of the current world financial situation and the resultant reduction in value of the grants that we can offer, we are using the occasion to launch a major Appeal for funds.
Lastly, the MEF relies heavily on the work and goodwill of volunteers, and we are very grateful to all of them, particularly Lindsay Griffin (Chairman of the Screening Committee), Richard Morgan (Hon Treasurer) and - despite being confined to a wheelchair - Bill Ruthven (Hon Secretary). We were delighted that Bill's efforts on behalf of the MEF were recently recognised by the Central Council of Physical Recreation, when he was presented with a Torch Trophy Trust Award by HRH Princess Alexandra.
Dr Charles Clarke - Chairman MEF
May 2003
