With the Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest Thanks largely to the efforts of one man - Tamotsu Nakamura - China (particularly Sichuan) was the most popular destination for expeditions supported by the MEF in 2004. In recent years he has been visiting obscure mountain areas and circulating reports and photographs of attractive unclimbed peaks in the English-language Japanese Alpine News. Hence, although some permits were rescinded by local authorities at a late stage causing major problems to those affected, no less than seven teams carried out their own exploration in some of the areas he had pioneered. An attempt to climb a new route on Siguniang (6250m) was thwarted by loose snow overlying compact slabs with 1000 metres still to go, but both the nearby Camel Peaks (c.5510m) were climbed. Haizi Shan (c.5710m) was climbed as far as its North summit but stopped 250m short of the main top due to lack of time. A 2-man New Zealand team made the first ascents of Longemain (6294m) and Daddomain (6380m) both by their West Ridges, but another team hoping to make the first 'official' ascent of Gongga East (6618m) had to abandon at 5400m, mainly due to weather conditions. A husband and wife hoping to climb big walls in Sichuan unfortunately picked the wettest time of the year, but nevertheless succeeded in making first ascents of two peaks (both c.5000m) from the Shuang Qiao Gou Valley. At their third attempt, another couple were at last able to reach Qomo Lhari (7326m) in Yadong county, and make its first 'alpine-style' ascent. A mixed 4-person Alpine Club team camped in the midst of local people who were searching for a magical 'worm grass'. Apparently without its aid, they then made the first ascent of both summits of Nganglong Kangri, recording GPS heights of 6710m, some 100m more than the previous map height.

South America remains popular, largely due to the minimum bureaucracy involved in organising expeditions. Five teams headed for Peru, three to Argentina and two to Bolivia, most recording some successes, but mainly on secondary objectives, changes being forced upon them by weather conditions. Inevitably bad weather greeted teams visiting Patagonia, one group only experiencing 8 hours of 'good' weather during four weeks - much of this time being spent in a snow hole below the East Face of Cerro Fitz Roy (3441m). A team hoping to prove whether or not Maestri and Egger climbed Cerro Torre (3128m) in 1959, fared little better, so moved to Cerro Pereyara and Aguja de la S (2350m) on which they climbed new routes. A group of stalwarts still hoping to make the first ascent of Cerro Aguilera (2438m) in Chile, did at last set foot on their mountain, but getting there had taken so much time and energy that the attempt had to be abandoned yet again. Maybe next time...

Five teams visited North America, one pair climbing a fine line on the SE Buttress of Mount Dickey (2909m) in 3 days of very sustained ice climbing up to 90°. Their route was repeated shortly afterwards by a member of another MEF-supported team climbing with an American pair, as his leader was unable to climb due to a back injury. The NW Face of Mt Kennedy (4234m) received its first ascent, as did the East Wall of Mt Nevermore (2469m).

There were only four expeditions to Greenland, but as always many new routes were climbed. Although a team sailing to the East coast was unable to enter Kangerdlugssuaq Fjord due to sea ice, they did manage to make landfall nearby, and climbed Red Peak (870m).

Four expeditions to India recorded mixed results, two international teams being badly affected by bad weather: on Kalanka (6991m) an early camp was destroyed by a sérac fall, then avalanches prevented progress beyond 6075m, whilst on Janhkuth (6805m), two separate pairs reached 5750m (UK) and 6500m (NZ). Meanwhile, several new routes and minor tops were climbed around the Jangpar Glacier and on slabs flanking Miyar Nala, and another team, originally planning a new route on Changabang (6864m) actually made the first ascent of Saf Minal (6911m) via its N Ridge and NW Face.

Both members of one of the teams visiting Nepal were laid low with chest infections which, combined with poor snow conditions forced them to abandon their attempt on the 'Eigerwand of the Khumbu' (6070m). The other team experienced 'the most intense 12 hours' of their lives whilst climbing the NW Face of Tengkang Poche (6500m) but only reached a crest on the West Ridge at 6210m, some 1 km short of the summit.

A few years ago, Pakistan was the most popular destination of all, but in 2004 it only saw one 2-man team hoping to make the first ascent of Hispar Sar (6400m). The Central Couloir on the SW face was climbed to within 300 metres of the summit, but the attempt had to be abandoned due to a combination of bad weather and lack of food and gas - most was lost when 3 stuff bags slid into the unknown.

With the relaxation of some restrictions imposed by the old USSR, Kyrgyzstan is now quite popular with western climbers, and in 2004 attracted three MEF-supported teams. All recorded successes, with a number of first ascents and new routes being climbed, although the achievements of one group were limited by a strange combination of high temperatures and bad weather.

Oman was the unusual venue for one team which, following a suggestion from Sir Wilfred Thesiger shortly before he died, successfully completed a 600km traverse of the Western Hajar range from the base of the Wahiba Sands to Al Dawadi on the Indian Ocean, by camel, foot and bicycle, climbing 5 new routes in the process.

On the recommendation of the Ghar Parau Foundation three caving trips were supported by the MEF during the year, two to China and one to Peru. Although all found new entrances and passages, in each case exploration was incomplete, and the 'Holy Grail' of cavers - the deepest system in the world - eluded all of them. But they will be going back!

The Kendal Mountain Film Festival continues to draw speakers and audiences from far and wide, and in November 2004 the MEF once again joined up with the British Mountaineering Council to present a series of short lectures on recent expeditions. Plans are already in hand for the next Festival, the main part of which will be held over the weekend of 18th-20th November 2005.

The Fiftieth Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga (at 8586 metres the world's third highest mountain) by an MEF-sponsored British expedition on 25th May 1955 is being celebrated at the Royal Geographical Society on the evening of 7th June 2005. The event, to be compèred by Sir David Attenborough and introduced by Charles Clarke, will be attended by all surviving members of the original team, with George Band, Joe Brown and Norman Hardie speaking. Doug Scott will make the closing tribute. The MEF is most grateful to the Royal Geographical Society for the use of its facilities on this occasion.

The issue of the Everest photographic collection is still a major concern, but I am pleased to report that the MEF is involved in meaningful discussions with the RGS, and I am hopeful that the issue can be resolved to the satisfaction of all parties.

Finally, I would like to thank my predecessor, Dr Charles Clarke, for his immense contribution to the MEF during his spell as Chairman. I would also like to thank all officers and members of both the Management and Screening Committees.

Dr John Gerrard - MEF Chairman
May 2005

Destinations in 2005 (repesented in graphical form)

MEF Committee Information 2004 - 2005

2005 Expeditions/Projects supported by MEF

Grants to expeditions 1977 - 2005 (represented in graphical form)

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