After receiving considerably less attention in recent years, the mountains of the Himalayan chain were once again the most popular venue for MEF-supported expeditions in 2006. For climbers seeking high peaks but wishing to avoid excessive bureaucracy, South America is the ideal choice, particularly since the threat of bandits seems much reduced, so it is not surprising that this was the second most popular area.

In the Himalaya, India attracted 3 teams: an expedition to Kedar Dome (6831m) made the first ascent of its ENE buttress, and one to Miyar Nala made first ascents of Goya Peak (5230m) and the Ridge to Peak 5650m. The other team planned to climb in North Sikkim, but on arrival in country were issued with a permit for West Sikkim where, despite not being fully prepared, they achieved first ascents of 2 minor summits. Both expeditions to China/Tibet achieved some success, with a joint British/American team just failing to reach the summit of unclimbed Nenang (6850m) and the other, to the Quionglai Shan, making the first ascent of Dorsal Peak (5050m) and a new route on Jiang Jun Fen (aka Ding Ding Peak)(5202m). Of the two trips to Nepal, one climbed a new route on the N Face of Dawa Peak, a subsidiary West summit of Pharilapcha (5977m), while the other climbed the normal route on Lobuje (6145m) to acclimatise, but failed to reach the summit of Cholatse (6400m) due to heavy snow. Of the two expeditions to Pakistan, one was unsuccessful on Lobsang Spire (5707m) and Pt 5607m due to bad weather. A team to ‘Unclimbed Hispar’ returned home leaving several fewer such peaks (c.5800m) than when they arrived, and also discovered that the true heights of peaks were rather less than marked on current maps.

In South America, Peru saw something of a renaissance, although one expedition to the Eastern Cordillera Blanca was reduced to a single team member so became a reconnaissance trip, but nevertheless the photographic record should prove of great value to future visitors. Elsewhere in the Blanca, a 2-man team hoping to make the first ascent the East Face of Huantsán (6395m) found that it was not in condition, but despite overhanging séracs and massive ice umbrellas, succeeded in climbing the 1000m Central NE Buttress on the separate peak of Huantsán Sur (5919m) at TD/ED. A team of so-called ‘Hikers’ explored the southern spur of the Cordillera Huayhuash from the east, but did not reach any summits, while in the less frequented Cordillera Oriental the pleasure of making what was probably the first ascent of Huaranco Sur (c.5150m) was reduced when the climbers discovered that their base camp had been robbed while they were away. Both expeditions to Bolivia achieved success, with one traversing the Palomani Tranca Group (Cordillera Apolobamba) from the east via several peaks until appalling rock and deteriorating weather forced an abandonment just before Tranca. The other team visited the Quimsa Cruz where six peaks between 5112 and 5550m were climbed, including some first ascents. In Chile, an attempt to make the first British ascent of the South Tower of Paine (c.2500m) by a new route was doing well when the climbers were hit by a monstrous storm with winds in excess of 200 kph: they felt very lucky to get down alive.

The only trip to North America supported in 2006 planned to climb a new route on Mt Dickey (2909m) in Alaska (USA) but was beaten by the weather - the coldest winter in 20 years had caused the sublimation of the intended ice line.

Greenland continues to provide the opportunity for exploration of unclimbed peaks to less experienced mountaineers and attracted 3 teams, who between them made ascents of some 25 peaks, the majority being first ascents.

There were two expeditions to ex-Soviet Union countries. In Kyrgyzstan, a 50 km ski traverse of the Ak-Shirak range was carried out, involving first ascents of 7 peaks over 4600m, whilst in Tajikistan an Alpine Club team explored the Shakhdara Range, climbing a number of new routes on peaks including the highest, Pik Karl Marx (6736m).

On the recommendation of the Ghar Parau Foundation, the MEF supported two caving expeditions, both to China, and both investigating the potential for future exploration, one in the Zhongdian mountains of Yunnan and the other in the mountain area west of Leibo in Sichuan. No doubt return trips are already being planned.

In recent years, the majority of the trips supported by the MEF have also received substantial grants from the BMC. Funding for these came from UK Sport, but in a dramatic change of policy, UK Sport has decided that in future they will concentrate their funds on ‘Olympic medal sports’, Although some Olympic medals were awarded long ago for mountaineering (eg: to the 1922 Everest team for ‘the greatest feat of alpinism….’) none have been given for many years, so one of the few general sources of funding is being withdrawn. In an effort to maintain ‘meaningful’ grants to expeditions, in 2007 the MEF decided to double the amount available for grants, even though the total may exceed the income for the year. Obviously the Foundation does not have unlimited funds, which makes the constant appeal for funding more urgent than ever.

Once again the MEF owes an enormous debt of gratitude to Bill Ruthven, our Hon Secretary, for his unstinting efforts which keep the operation running smoothly and at a high standard. The MEF operates at a very low cost (with no paid staff) and so is entirely dependent on and grateful to its volunteers, Lindsay Griffin, Chair the Screening Committee, Richard Morgan, Treasurer, Richard Thorneley, Solicitor, the Main Committee and the Screening Committee. This results in the allocation of grants which (though not as large as we would like) contribute to keeping Britain and New Zealand at the forefront of exploratory mountaineering worldwide.

It is disappointing to report that there is still no sign of an end to the dispute with the RGS over the Everest photographs. We are continuing to work towards an amicable agreement that will satisfy the intentions of the members of the 1953 Everest team (who gave up rights and revenue from the expedition) and will be financially beneficial to future mountaineers

Martin Scott – MEF Chairman

June 2007

Destinations in 2007 (repesented in graphical form)

MEF Committee Information 2006 - 2007

2007 Expeditions/Projects supported by MEF

Grants to expeditions 1977 - 2007 (represented in graphical form)