Patron: H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., K.T.
Report of the Chairman for 2007 - 2008
In 2007, two teams set out to investigate the effects of altitude on the human body. One was a Service expedition to Argentina, which monitored the blood pressure and oxygen saturation of its members as they climbed a number of summits culminating in Aconcagua (6959m). The other team, to Nepal, consisted of 20 (mainly medical) personnel plus 200 ‘volunteers’ who took things to the ultimate with the summit of Everest (8850m) as its high point – an objective that was reached by 15 of the team. Participants donated blood samples at each stage of the climb, and also underwent ‘work’ tests at stages as high as the South Col. In addition, a Conference in London brought together a number of world specialists who described the developments in mountain knowledge during the 150 years of the Alpine Club.
South America was the area that attracted the most MEF-supported expeditions in the year – which may have something to do with the minimum amount of bureaucracy facing visitors! Of the three teams visiting Peru, those to the Cordillera Carabaya and the Cordillera Huayhuash decided that their intended objectives were too risky, but succeeded in making first ascents of other peaks. The other expedition, in the Cordillera Blanca, was going well for its main summit when one of the climbers was hit by a falling rock: although he was not seriously hurt, it caused him to drop his rucksack – and most of their gear, thus ending the attempt. In Argentina a team already experiencing bad weather and a shortage of time was then attacked by aggressive bees, which proved to be an even more effective deterrent! In Chile, bad weather caused a team in the Darwin Range to abandon its main objective, but nevertheless they made first ascents of two minor peaks. It was unfortunate that an expedition to the South Tower of Paine had to be postponed by several months, as during that time their objective was ‘nabbed’ by an Italian team. However, they made up for it by a first class route on the East face of Cuerno Norte. In the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz of Bolivia a group of students climbed 11 (mainly rock) routes, most thought to be first ascents. Further south still, an expedition to British Graham Land (Antarctica) made the first ascent of Mackenzie Peak (1205m) and a repeat of one other.
In North America there were two expeditions to Alaska (USA), one making the first ascent of a couloir between Werewolf and Hut Tower, and the other climbing a new route on Mt Dan Beard (3125m), while in the Yukon of Canada, despite heavy snowfall which made many slopes extremely dangerous, an enterprising team made the second ascent of Lowell Peak (3630m) by a new route on its West Ridge.
Greenland provided the usual opportunities for new routes – between them the five visiting teams achieved approximately one hundred first ascents!
In Asia, China & Tibet were popular countries, attracting five expeditions, including a caving trip to Yunnan Province (recommended by the Ghar Parau Foundation), which thoroughly explored nearly 30 caves. Although the area appeared to have great depth potential, nothing deeper than 60m was found. Above ground, Manamcho (6264m) received its first ascent, as did Hati (aka Hadi & Nazdenka 5524m) and several others as ‘fall-backs’ when the prime objectives resisted attempts or proved to be out of condition. A similar situation pertained in India, where two of the four expeditions achieved success on ‘secondary’ objectives (albeit up to 6465m), while of the others, a team from New Zealand experienced such severe storms that they were unable to succeed on Changabang (6864m) or even attempt anything else, while a new route on Kalanka (6931m) was abandoned 700m short of the summit. A party in the little visited Kanti Himal of Nepal was unable to reach its objective (Rongla Kangri, 6647m) due to a very snowy post-monsoon, but made first ascents of two sub-6000m peaks to its west. (They later learned that West Nepal is host to some 250 peaks over 6000m - most without names, and very few even attempted.) In Pakistan, teams had mixed fortunes. Two very strong rock climbers visited the Nangma valley, where they succeeded in climbing multi-day routes on Denbor Braak and Zang Braak (both 4800m). A 2-woman team from New Zealand made the first official attempt on Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940m) but had to abandon at 6200m due to poor snow conditions and a rock band requiring fixed ropes, while a 3-woman (Canada-based) team climbing south of the Choktoi Glacier found exfoliating rock on their prime objective, but reached a 5200m sub-summit of a multi-pinnacled ridge. A solo attempt on peaks in the Hispar region failed after the climber broke one of his ice tools, and was later avalanched – fortunately without incurring serous injury.
Kyrgyzstan attracted two expeditions, both of which were successful. Despite unseasonably warm conditions, an AC ski trip to Ak-Shirak made first ascents of 5 peaks c.4800m, while a team to the Malitslovo Glacier ticked off 2 new summits c.5000m, both of which appeared to be higher than marked on the map.
With the Olympic Games being held in Beijing, the Chinese authorities have severely restricted access to their mountains in 2008, to the extent that parts of Tibet are closed completely. This has forced several teams to cancel their original plans and submit alternative applications to other countries.
I am pleased to report that we have had constructive meetings with the RGS to resolve the long standing dispute over the Everest photos and I am optimistic that it is close to resolution. I would like to express warm thanks to Sarah Tyacke and David Unwin who have taken the lead in negotiations.
The operation of the MEF depends entirely on the unpaid dedicated volunteers who put in many hours of work. We owe enormous thanks to Bill Ruthven for his continued unstinting efforts in his flawless running of the MEF and his support for the Chairman and the Committee. Richard Morgan has run the finances in an exemplary manner and Lindsay Griffin has brought his unsurpassed knowledge of the remote mountain areas of the world to his Chairmanship of the Screening Committee. My thanks go also for the helpful support of the Committee and for the time and expertise of the Screening Committee.
At the Annual General Meeting to be held in December 2008, Major General Roy Wood will complete his 6-year term of office and I will complete my two years as Chairman, and hand over to Dr Sarah Tyacke, though I will be staying on as a Trustee. It has been a great privilege to serve as Chairman which, thanks to the support I have had, I have very much enjoyed. My best wishes for the future go to Sarah, the Committee and Officers.'
Martin Scott – MEF Chairman
August 2008
