2004 EXPEDITIONS SUPPORTED BY MEF
(Use blue button to view an expedition report summary)
| REF |
EXPEDITION/PROJECT NAME |
LEADER |
COUNTRY/REGION |
GRANT |
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| 04/02 |
 'Four Go Free' Fitzroy E Face |
Mike (Twid) Turner |
Argentina/Fitz Roy NP |
£350
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| To make the first ascent of a 1300m free climb on the NE side of Fitzroy |
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| 04/05 |
British Qionglai 2004 |
Tom Chamberlain |
China/Sichuan |
£350
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| Major new route on N Face or W Ridge of Siguniang (6250m) |
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| 04/06 |
Return to Cerro Torre (Maestri-Egger), Feb 2004 |
Leo Houlding |
Argentina/Fitz Roy NP |
£500
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| Alpine-style ascent of Maestri-Egger Route on E/N Face of Cerro Torre (3128m) + other routes in area |
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| 04/07 |
British Western Hajar Traverse 2003/4 |
Geoff Hornby |
Oman/Hajar |
£500
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Continuous traverse of Western Hajar Mountains from Empty Quarter to Indian Ocean, inc FA of several peaks en route
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| 04/08 |
Huanjiang (caving) |
Ged Campion |
China/Guizhou Province |
£550
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Exploration of caves in Dagouhe River catchment area of Huanjiang & Luocheng Counties
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| 04/09 |
Chacraraju Este, en Los Andes |
Nick Bullock |
Peru/Cord Blanca |
£500
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New route on E Face of Chacraraju Este (6001m), starting on Slovenian 1993 line but then direct to to summit
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| 04/10 |
Dusk till Dawn' Alaska 04 |
Stuart McAleese |
USA/Alaska |
£600
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Traverse from the Shadows Glacier to the Sunshine Glacier with FA of SW ridge/wall of Middle Triple Peak
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| 04/11A |
New Zealand Unclimbed Tibet |
Sean Waters |
China/Tibet |
£700 X
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Exploration of peaks surrounding the Lawa Valley with FAs of Chuchepo (6550m) & Birutaso (6691m)
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| 04/12 |
Spaghetti Mountain' Miyar Nala, India |
Mike (Twid) Turner |
India/Him Pradesh |
£350 X
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| First ascent of 6000m peak at head of Spaghetti Glacier via its impressive 1000m rock face + other unclimbed mountains |
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| 03/13A |
Gongga E 2004 |
Ms Angela Benham |
China/W Sichuan |
£600
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| First ascent of Gongga East (aka Mt Edgar) (6618m) and local exploration |
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| 04/14 |
British Hispar Sar 2004 |
Simon Yates |
Pakistan |
£600
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| First ascent of Hispar Sar (6400m) by its NE Face |
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| 04/15 |
Scottish Kyzyl Asker 2004 |
Es Tresidder |
Kyrgyzstan/Western Kokshaal Too |
£600
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First ascent of SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m) and other smaller peaks in area
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| 04/16 |
Blanca 2004 |
Tony Barton |
Peru/Cord Blanca |
£350
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First ascents of peaks between 5500m & 6200m £350 in the Quebradas & Cancaraca Grande regions of the Cordillera Blanca
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| 04/17 |
British Aguilera 2004 |
Dr David Hillebrandt |
Chile/Western Patagonia |
£650
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Another attempt to make the first ascent of Cerro Aguilera (2438m) in Chilean West Patagonia
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| 04/18 |
Miyar 2004 |
Graham Little |
India/Him Pradesh |
£600
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Exploration and first ascents of granite peaks & towers to E of Miyar Glacier in Western Lahul
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| 04/19A |
Greenland Challenge 2004/2005 |
Rev Bob Shepton |
Greenland/West |
£150
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To access from the sea and make first ascents of peaks in several different areas of W Greenland
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| 04/20 |
KMC 60th Anniversary Pamiagdluk Island |
Dave Bone |
Greenland/Pamiagdluk Island |
£350
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| Exploration and establishing new rock routes of all grades |
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| 04/21 |
International Kalanka North Face |
Sandy Allan |
India |
£650
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| First ascent of North Face of Kalanka (6931m) |
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| 04/22 |
Teng Kangpoche NW Face |
Nick Bullock |
Nepal |
£575
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| First complete ascent of NW Face of Teng Kang Poche to summit (6500m) |
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| 04/23 |
Rucksack Club Watkins Mountains, 2004 |
Jim Hall |
Greenland/East |
App
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| Exploration and first ascents of peaks in the Watkins Mountains |
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| 04/24 |
British Torssukatak Fjord |
Dr Leanne Callaghan |
Greenland/South |
£500+£500*
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First ascent of 'The Baron' (Pt 1340m) on Pamiadluk Island by several free routes & recce Pt.1303 as a future objective
*Alison Chadwick Memorial Grant for 2004 |
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| 04/25 |
British Mount Dickey |
Dr Guy Willett |
USA/Alaska |
£500
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New 1600m route on E Face of Mount Dickey (2907m) to the right of 'Blood from a Stone'
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| 04/26A |
' Eigerwand of the Khumbu' |
Rich Cross |
Nepal |
£575
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| North Face of Pt 6070m, a distant subsidiary summit of Kang Tega West |
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| 04/27 |
UCL Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia |
Ms Sarah Griffin |
Bolivia/Cord Quimsa Cruz |
£500
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To climb new and existing alpine-style rock routes and collate information about all ascents in the area
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| 04/28 |
Teng Kang Poche North Pillar 2004 |
Jules Cartwright |
Nepal |
£575 X*
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| First ascent of North Pillar of Teng Kang Poche (6500m?)
*Expedition cancelled due to prior death of leader in the Alps |
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| 04/29 |
NZ Ancohuma/Ilampu NE Cordillera Real |
Dr Erik Monasterio |
Bolivia/Cord Real |
£150
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New routes on Ilampu (6384m), Ancohuma (6427m) & Emma Maria Peak (5,531m)
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| 04/30 |
British Bradley 2004 |
Sam Chinnery |
USA/Alaska |
£500
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| New mixed route on S Face of Mount Bradley (2775m) above Ruth Gorge |
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| 04/32 |
Anglo-Scottish Vilcanota |
Dave Wilkinson |
Peru/Cord Vilcanota |
£575
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First ascents of W Face of Colque Cruz I (c.6100m), and other faces in the area
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| 04/33 |
British West Sichuan |
Martin Scott |
China/Sichuan |
£600
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Exploration of mountains of West Sichuan with first ascent of Haizi Shan (5844m)
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| 04/34 |
British Mount Kennedy NW Face 2004 |
Rich Cross |
Canada/Yukon |
£575
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| First complete ascent of NW Face of Mt Kennedy (4234m) |
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| 04/35 |
Jankuth 2004 |
Malcolm Bass |
India/Garhwal |
£650
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| First ascent of Jankuth (aka Januhut) (6806m) |
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| 04/37 |
Scottish Cordillera Huayhuash 2004 |
Iain Rudkin |
Peru/Cord Huayhuash & Blanca |
£175
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| New route on West Face of Nevado Rondoy (5879m) and other peaks |
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| 04/38 |
Zaalaiskiy Ridge |
Paul Hudson |
Kyrgyzstan |
£575
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| Exploration and first ascents of peaks around Nura Glacier |
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| 04/39 |
Kyrgystan - Djungart 2004 |
Ms Ingrid Crossland |
Kyrgyzstan/Tien Shan |
£650
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| Exploration and first ascents in Djungart area of the Kokshaal Too range |
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| 04/40 |
British Qomo Lhari 2004 |
Dr Julie-Ann Clyma |
China/Yadong County |
£650
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| First ascent of NW Ridge of Chomo Lhari (7326m) |
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| 04/41 |
British 2004 Artesonaraju |
Neal Crampton |
Peru/Cord Blanca |
£175
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New routes on Artesonaraju (6025m), Pucajirca (5900m) and Santa Cruz (6259m)
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04/42
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Greenland White Sea |
Peter Watson |
Greenland/East |
£350
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To sail to Greenland and make first ascents of peaks around Kangderdlussuaq Fjord
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| 04/43 |
British Nganglong Kangri |
John Town |
China/Tibet |
£575
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Exploration and first ascent of Nganglong Kangri (6596m) in Rutok County (Ngari Province)
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| 04/44 |
' Free Knowledge' |
Ian Parnell |
USA/Alaska |
£350
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First free ascent of 'The Knowledge' on N Buttess of Mt Hunter (4437m) & new route on SE Face of Mt Foraker (5300m)
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| 04/45 |
Anglo-American Changabang 2004 |
Ian Parnell |
India/Garhwal |
£650
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New routes on N Face of Saf Minal (6911m) and S Face of Changabang (6864m)
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| 04/46 |
Fin del Mundo 2004 |
Dr Colin Wells |
Argentina/Tierra del Fuego |
£150
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Exploration and first ascents in hinterland of Ushuaia including new route on S Face of Monte Vinciguerra (1450m)
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| 04/47 |
Genetic Adaptation to high altitude in Himalaya |
Gianpiero Cavalleri |
China/Yunnan |
App X
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| Study of the adaptation of local people to living at high altitude |
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| 04/49 |
British Xiashe North Face |
Ed Douglas |
China/Sichuan |
£600 X
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| Exploration of Jarjinjabo Massif and new route on N Face of Xiashe (5833m) |
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| 04/50 |
Behind the Veil' Anglo-Iranian Big-wall 2004 |
Ms Anne Arran |
Iran/North |
App X
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| Exploration and first ascents of big walls and rocky peaks including a new App route on the N Face of Alam Kouh (4850m) |
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| 04/51 |
Big-wall of China |
John Arran |
China/Sichuan |
£500
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Exploration and first ascents of big walls on peaks in the Siguniang Region of Sichuan Province
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| 04/52 |
Lobsang 2004 |
Ms Anne Arran |
Pakistan |
£500 X
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| First free ascent of Lobsang Spire (5707m) by new route on unclimbed South Face |
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| 04/53 |
British Kajaquio 2004 |
Mick Fowler |
China/Tibet |
£700 X
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General reconnaissance and first ascent of NE Face of Kajaquio (6447m) in the Nyainqentanghla East Range
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| 04/54 |
Hong Meigui Yunnan 2004 (caving) |
Ms Hilary Greaves |
China/Yunnan Province |
£550
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To search for and explore caves with significant depth potential in mountains west of Zhongdian, Yunnan Province
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| 04/55 |
Sima Pumacocha 2004 (caving) |
Peter MacNab |
Peru/Laraos |
£475
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Continued exploration of Sima Pumacoche SP2, already the deepest in S America at 638m but with 1000m potential
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X = Expedition cancelled, postponed, withdrawn or not accepted.
App = Expedition is fully approved by MEF
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| TOTAL OF ABOVE GRANTS |
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£23,350
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| GRANT TO ALPINE JOURNAL |
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£2,500
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| GRANT TO HIMALAYAN CLUB 75th Anniversary Appeal |
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£200
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| TOTAL VALUE OF GRANTS ALLOCATED IN 2004 |
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£26,050
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