2025 Yukshin Gardan Sar British-International Expedition

Following the Pahalgam terrorist attack in Indian-administered Jammu and the resulting cross-border hostilities between India and Pakistan, this team of three judged that a permit for their original objective, Rimo III, in the Indian East Karakoram was unlikely to be forthcoming. After having an application to climb Saltoro Kangri rejected, they alighted on Yukshin Gardan Sar (7530m) in the Shimshal valley, receiving a permit for their planned ascent via the mountain's north ridge. After completing the four-day approach from Shimshal and establishing base camp, the team were frustrated by the extremely warm summer conditions, which made acclimatisation both challenging and dangerous. Concluding that they would likely have more success simply acclimatising on their objective itself, they planned to ascend to ~6,500m via their proposed route before descending to the glacier. Despite mixed conditions and difficulty locating much protection, the trio made decent progress over two days. Unfortunately, on the second day, an accident with an ice axe while excavating a bivy site saw Wright sustain a serious injury to his ankle. Given their position and the apparent seriousness of the wound, the team elected to descend and call for a rescue. A helicopter arrived the next day, evacuating Wright to Skardu where he received treatment at the military hospital.