British Bolocho 1997

From the summit of Haramosh II in 1995, this leader saw a K2-like peak to the west, and set his heart on climbing it. An attempt in 1996 (96/23) from the Kero Lungma Glacier proved that the local map was unreliable, and that the mountain was actually located above the Bolocho Glacier. With the undoubted advantage of knowing where it was, he returned in 1997. The Glacier basin is surrounded by peaks which they gave the unimaginative but practical names (working from N to S) of Bolocho I to Bolocho VII: the target peak thus became Bolocho I. In the best weather Wilkinson had ever experienced in the Karakoram, the team acclimatised by climbing Bolocho V, c5,240m, at Scottish III/IV, but Muir then rested a recurrent ankle injury whilst the others climbed Bolocho I, 6,000m, by its N Ridge (D/TD & Scottish III/IV). As a bonus, all three plus the cook's assistant then climbed Bolocho VI, 6,200m.