British Women's Sat Marao 96
Maps of the area surrounding the Sat Marao Glacier (north of Chait) are vague and confused, so this team hoped to clarify the situation, and climb some of the surrounding mountains as well. In the only break in the weather they made the second ascent of Kuti Dorkush, c5,900m, by an unclimbed snow/ice couloir on the S Face to join the SW Ridge, a route with high stonefall and some avalanche risk. They descended to the NW, using the route by which the mountain was first climbed in 1994.
This expedition received the MEF Alison Chadwick Memorial Grant for 1996.