Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

'Conway's Ogre' (6422m) or 'Uzzun Brakh'

The 3-man team of Dickson, Saunders and Tapsfield tackled this interesting peak from a base camp at the junction of the Biafu and Baintha (Ogre) Glaciers. After rescuing a Japanese team descending from Latok IV, Saunders and Tapsfield forced a route, involving Grade IV/V ice climbing, up the NE buttress and reached a point 50m from the summit of the Ogre. Snow pinnacles in a dangerous condition on the summit ridge made the last section an unjustifiable risk.

July - August 1980
Alexander Dickson, Tony Saunders and Will Tapsfield from Britain

Other expeditions nearby