Cumbria & North Yorks Karakoram 1998
Chari Khand (5,886m) is a complex peak at the end of the Naltar Valley near Gilgit, possibly climbed once before by the Pakistan army. A few days after this team's arrival at base camp, their cook/guard was killed in a bizarre woodcutting accident, which delayed their attempt. Their route was on the SE face leading to a col between the main and south summits, which proved to be heavily crevassed 50-55 degree ice (grade III Scottish). At c 5,000m they experienced a major storm with heavy snowfall, and then found a huge crevasse right across the face, so had to abandon the attempt.