Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

East Face of Dhaulagiri: International Expedition

The team of 4 led by Alex McIntyre established a small advanced camp on the NE Col early in April, 1980, allowing time for exploration and acclimatisation, before tackling the unclimbed E face on 5 May. They encountered severe weather conditions including electric storms, spindrift avalanches and very thin ice, which obliged them to move fast and unroped for most of the route. After 3 nights on inadequate ledges, they returned to the NE Col; they renewed the attempt from their previous high point on 17 May and, at midday on 18 May, all 4 climbers reached the summit, achieved in alpine style and without oxygen. As recipients of the Nick Estcourt Memorial award, the team agreed to name the climb the 'Nick Estcourt Route'.

April - May 1980
Alex McIntyre from Britain

Other expeditions nearby