Gasherbrum IV Expedition

An attempt of a new route on the E face of Gasherbrum IV (7925m). From base camp twelve days were spent setting up a series of three camps on the route. The climb from camp two to camp three involved snow to 50°. From camp three repeated climbs were made to 7,300m. The line thereafter was of snowfields interspersed with previously invisible compact white marble slabs, which were completely unprotectable. In the absence of worthwhile belays the route was considered too dangerous to attempt and three days were spent in the descent cleaning the route. It was considered that in a year with more snow it might be possible to climb over some of the marble bands but on unprotectable snow. A bid on the Bonatti route was cancelled due to bad weather and although ‘Gasherbrum 4.5’ was climbed to 6,700m, further progress was prevented by dangerous snow conditions.