Hindu Kush

Objectives were first ascents of Langua-tai-Barfi (7011m) and the SE Face of Shakawr (7076m) in the Hindu Kush of North West Pakistan. The approach was by a two day walk-in from the road head at Zondangram to the Roshgol Glacier. After acclimatising up to 5200m on the slopes surrounding basecamp they established an advance basecamp at the head of the glacier 15km from base. They set up a further three camps to a high point of about 6200m on the North Ridge of Langua-tai-Barfi, which forms the border between Afghanistan and Pakistan. The climbing had involved stretches of deep snow, and mixed rock and ice, although it did not require pitching. They left for the summit the next day at 1am, and climbed for 14 hours through deep unconsolidated snow in very low temperatures. At 5pm they estimated a further 4/5 hours to the summit, and in deteriorating weather and whiteout conditions they turned back to their high camp. They retreated to base camp the following day. Shortage of time prevented any attempt on Shakawr.