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Muchu Chhish 2022

The world’s second highest unclimbed peak has had several suitors over recent decades, to which this pair now add their names. Travelling to Pakistan in August 2022, they encountered appalling conditions as the country experienced its highest level of rainfall in 30 years, with widespread flooding. The poor conditions hampered their approach to basecamp but by the start of September, they had succeeded in establishing Camp I at 4,900m, just below the mountain’s South Ridge. At this point, they received a poor weather forecast for the days ahead and decided to abandon their attempt, concluding that they would not have enough time for a serious push. They returned to Aliabad before relocating to their secondary objective: Pregar II (C. 6,000m). Finding their intended route up the mountain’s south face to be in poor condition, with scoured, dry rock and loose scree, they called it a day, ending the expedition without success. They concluded that future attempts on Muchu Chhish would be advised to plan for a longer, 6-7 week expedition, with acclimatisation carried out on an alternative, safer peak.

August - September 2022
Murilo Gimenes Lessa and Stephen Ashworth

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