Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

North Wales Unclimbed Pakistan

The Nangma Valley is little visited by British climbers, but contains some excellent granite walls and unclimbed peaks. In a similar manner to 97/18 last year (during which they recced this area) after travelling to base camp together, this party split into two teams, one all-male and the other all female. The objective of the men was the first ascent of the NE Wall of Amin Brakk, 5,700m. Lampard had to return home, but the other three climbed 1,100m in 32 pitches (ED+, E3, A3) to the top of the wall: being short of time they did not go to the summit 300m higher. The local people named the route 'Nawas Brakk' after the son of the expedition cook. Meanwhile the ladies climbed a 600m, 19-pitch new route 'South Arete Ram Chi Kor' (E3, 5c, A2) to the 4,800m summit of Sotulpa Peak. They also climbed the peak by its N Ridge, which was only AD, so although they had no information of any previous ascents, they felt it likely that theirs was not the first. Finally they made the first ascent of Denbor Peak, 4,700m, by a PD route they called 'The Gentian Traverse'.

July - August 1998
Mike Turner with Elfyn Jones, Dai Lampard, Steve Mayers, Libby Peter and Louise Thomas

Other expeditions nearby