Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Parkin-Saunders Khumbu Winter 2009-10 Unclimbed Peaks

Although most climbers only visit the Himalayan mountains in the summer, the winter months sometimes offer more settled – albeit colder – weather conditions. This pair hoped to take advantage of this to make the first ascent of Peak 5943m (via its SE Face) from the Chola Valley, before moving south to Pangboche and establishing a camp up the Minma Khola from which to climb Peak 6424m (a shoulder of Kantega North West) at the head of the Omoga Glacier. However, with the winter being so dry, neither of these routes looked feasible, so the pair decided to try the unclimbed North Face of Lobuje West (6,119m). Unfortunately, while carrying a heavy rucksack to the bottom of the face, Parkin fell on the moraine and hurt his back. Although he decided to continue with an attempt on the route, the pair had to give up at 5,600m when the injury proved too painful to continue.

January - February 2010
Andy Parkin with Victor Saunders