Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Sani Pakush Expedition

With prior experience climbing on the northeast spur of Sani Pakush in 1998, Peter Thompson returned with Philip De-Beger to attempt a new alpine route on the northeast spur and east ridge in what would be a second ascent of the peak. Returning in July however, they found that the route contained far more seracs than when Peter first visited the peak in 1998, as well as evidence of substantial avalanche fall. They nonetheless began acclimatising and began to carry equipment to the base of the route but found the glacier approach very difficult with no obvious routes around. They decided instead to switch to an alternative unclimbed 5,920m peak near the Khunjerab Pass. They reached the bivi site without the aid of porters and achieved a height of 5,800m before being forced to turn back due to the heavily corniced final ridge, which was covered with poorly consolidated snow. With the expedition over, they arranged transport to collect them from the Karakoram Highway to return them to Karimabad.

July - August 2019
Peter Thompson and Philip De-Beger

Other expeditions nearby