Tengkangpoche 2025

The unclimbed south ridge of Tengkangpoche (6487m) is an aesthetic line tucked away at the back of the secluded Lumding valley. This team of four hoped that the late monsoon snow in October would help conditions on the mountain. What they had not expected was for another storm to arrive in November, right at the start of their trip. This was the same storm which caused the tragic avalanche on Yalung Ri in the neighbouring valley. At base camp the team found 1m of unconsolidated snow. With short days and cooler temperatures in late autumn, the snow conditions did not improve quickly. The glacier was loaded with soft snow, had only weak snow bridges and was exposed to objective danger from the south face of Tengkangpoche. Avalanche activity on all aspects was visible, but particularly on the south and west faces, including up to three weeks after the last snowfall. Further misfortune came when the team at last hoped to make an attempt on the ridge. At this point, a low pressure system brought 40-50mph westerly winds, depositing windslab on the approach gullies to the south ridge and the east ridge descent route. Under the circumstances it was deemed too unstable to attempt the climb and the team returned to Lukla.

This expedition were recipients of the Nick Estcourt Award for exceptional mountaineering objectives.