Alpine Club Kyrgyzstan Expedition 2021

The team gathered in Bishkek before transferring to Kuiluu via Karakol. Here they established their basecamp with a view to climbing a number of virgin peaks off the East Bordlu Glacier. Due to problems with acquiring insurance for the expedition, Wayne Auton was unable to meet the rest of the party at basecamp as planned. The team was further reduced to just four members when, shortly after arriving at basecamp, Sam Mace was evacuated by helicopter due to an infected ingrowing toenail. Despite their reduced numbers, the remaining team members succeeded in establishing a new route on their acclimatisation objective; PK4788 on the 13 August. The mountain was climbed via its west flank and summit ridge in alpine style at an approximate grade of PD(+). The following day, the same team achieved another first ascent on the same mountain, again via the west flank, at a grade of AD(+). On their return to basecamp, the team discovered that the expedition cook had been threatened by a local farmer who had also damaged a number of the camp tents. The fallout from this event cut short the remaining climbing time and no further summits were achieved.