Anglo New Zealand Zartosh

Although there were rumours that Zartosh (6128m) in the Muzkol Range of Tajikistan has already been climbed by a team from the Eastern Bloc, these were unconfirmed, so this party hoped to make the first definite ascent. The 700m North face had already repulsed 3 attempts by Kenyan climbers but nevertheless was the first route that the new team attempted reaching c.5650m before unconsolidated snowpack, thin ice and powder snow on top of rock forced them to retreat. They subsequently reached the summit via the West Col on a route consisting of mixed technical ground, but found no trace of any previous ascent.