Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

British Donjek Glacier 2002

The Donjek Glacier lies in the Canadian Yukon, and is surrounded by unclimbed peaks: this team planned to fly in from Alaska in a single-engined Otter to climb. Due to poor visibility the pilot decided to drop the first pair, Hornby and Wilks, on the Eclipse Glacier (between the Hubbard and Donjek systems) but as a result, he was banned from further entry to Canadian airspace. Making the best of the situation, the pair made the first ascents of Pt 3390 via its SE Ridge and Pt 3320 via its E Face and also climbed a new route on the NW Ridge of Pt 3330. Meanwhile, Duff and Sammut were forced to drive to Kluane and then, after collecting the others, to Chitina, from where they were flown to Goat Glacier in the Granite Range of St Elias National Park. Three more first ascents were achieved in this area, Mt Lola by its SW Ridge, and Mounts Jennifer and Zaylie, both by their West Faces. New routes were also climbed on the West Face of Pt 2450 and the SW Ridge of Pt 2570 by its West Face. What would they have achieved if they had been in their intended area?

May - June 2002
Geoff Hornby with Alastair Duff, Susan Sammut and Glenn Wilks

Other expeditions nearby