British Meru East Face

Although the IMF had given permission for this team to attempt the highest peak in Himachal Pradesh (Reo Purgyil, 6,816m), following a week in which nuclear tests had been carried out, this was revoked by the Indian Government two days before departure from the UK. However application to the IMF in person resulted in a permit being issued for the East Face of Meru, 6,660m, in the Gangotri region. After establishing a base camp at Tapovan, c4,480m, and helping to evacuate a sick trekker, the pair put a tent on Shivling-Meru Col, c5,700m, for 2 nights of acclimatisation. With the weather already showing signs of deterioration, they placed a bivvy camp at 6,150m on a shallow rib on the exteme right of the main snowfield, from which they hoped that the summit would be within reach. But then heavy snow fell, heralding the start of the monsoon and the end of the expedition, which had not managed to climb above 6,300m.