Changla Himal 2025

Following a flight to Simikot, Attfield and O’Sullivan approached the remote Sumna Valley on foot, hiking 55km with the support of trekking guide Chhimel Lama and muleteer Dhan Bahadur Shai. After establishing base camp at 4,800m, the pair attempted a 5,575m acclimatisation peak but retreated near the summit due to a significant rock cleft, poor weather, and limited equipment. Following this, they established a high camp at 5,200m below their primary objective, Sumna Himal (6084m). They successfully climbed the peak on 23 September, their line following a receding northern glacier to the north ridge, before scrambling through boulders to an upper cirque from where a mix of easy ridge climbing, a short rock section, and an exposed 45° traverse across the north face led to the west ridge at 6,000m. From here, gentle rocky slopes brought them to the summit at 11.30am. They descended the same route, rating the climb PD. Before departing, the team completed an additional climb (another likely first ascent), this time of an easy 5,450m peak near base camp.